JD's Burgers

85 Willsmere Rd 

Kew, VIC 3101

http://jdsburgers.com.au/

What does an 8-layer burger look like?

2kg Legendary Super Saiyan Burger Challenge ($50)

This. It looks like this. It looks like regrets and dreams stacked into a 2kg monstrosity of cholesterol and saturated fats. Thankfully I wasn’t the one who ordered this.

This guy was the one who ordered it.

Hidden away on a suburban shopping strip in Kew is JD’s Burgers, a small take-away burger cafe that is popular with locals, tradies, and people turning in their dignity for a chance at the glory of completing the  burger challenge. In comparison, the promise of Asian fusion burgers almost fades into the background. But I’m a little more conscious about the condition of my arteries, so instead of unhinging my jaw on the 8-layer monstrosity, I decided to check out what happens to burgers when east meets west. 

JD's Mighty Beef Burger ($12)

As great as fusion creations may be, what is a local burger shop if it can’t get the basics right? I tested JD’s mettle with their signature burger, the JD’s Mighty Beef Burger ($12). Though thick and juicy, the patty erred towards blandness, and the cheese was only semi-melted. The rasher of bacon on the other hand was intoxicatingly smoky, combining well with the glazed brioche bun. Despite its flaws, it was a satisfyingly sloppy burger that earned itself a generous pass. 

Japanese Curry Chicken Burger ($11)

Of course, I couldn’t leave without trying something weird and wonderful as well. Though there are influences from all over Asia, including Korea, Vietnam, and Hong Kong, I couldn’t resist the Japanese Chicken Curry Burger ($11), which combined two things I love to eat. Between the same glossy buns was, quite literally, a scoop of saucy chicken curry, complete with chunks of potato. It was accompanied simply by fresh salad and a smear of Kewpie mayo. Even though it was unusual, it was unexpectedly delicious, even when there was nothing but sauce and bun left.

Beer Battered Chips with Special Seasoning ($4.5, small)/JD's Homemade Aurora Chip Sauce ($2)/Aioli Dipping Sauce ($2)

I have a confession: I only went to the gym that morning so I could have an order of Beer Battered Fries ($4.5, small) without feeling guilty. They would’ve been worth it regardless, with their lightly seasoned exterior and mushy centre. We also sampled the two dipping sauces on offer – a thick and potent Garlic Aioli ($2) which I loved, and the tangy Aurora Chip Sauce ($2) made with mayo and a secret ingredient. I thought it tasted like a faintly Asian pickle relish but alas, my tastebuds weren’t clever enough to work it out.

Despite the novelty factor of the Legendary Super Saiyan Challenge, JD’s is still a legitimate place for a decent burger. They have their classics down pat, whilst offering a wacky range of fusion burgers for the adventurous. There are plenty of chicken, fish, and vegetarian options, and you can even build your own sandwich from scratch. Aside from the extremely health-conscious, there’s likely something for everybody here. 

Rating: 13/20 – kamehameha!!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of JD’s Burgers

Table by S

156 Peel Street 

North Melbourne, VIC 3051
http://www.tablebys.com/

Table by S and I are star-crossed lovers. Though I’ve fallen for it from the moment Sam told me about it back in April, each and every time I have wanted to visit so far has fallen on a Monday. Guess which day of the week Table by S takes a break? The chemistry however, is undeniable, and I finally found myself with a hankerin’ for some Korean-Italian fusion tapas on a Friday.

Table by S sits just a little bit further up from the strip of Korean restaurants opposite Victoria market, and came as something of a surprise. Instead of being a warm, dark den characteristic of the Korean restaurants in the locale, Table by S was bright and intimate, manned by a bubbly crew. And how adorable are the Christmas decorations?

Banchan

Our meal started traditionally enough with a trio of Banchan. The obligatory kimchi was less tangy, but with a stronger taste of red chilli. The cubes of marinated potato were unremarkable, but the pickled onions were crisp, sharp, and lovely. 

Kimchi Aranchini ($15.9, 4pcs)

Then the surprises started coming. The first was the Kimchi Aranchini ($15.9, 4pcs). Lightly fried and coated in creamy dollops of blue cheese sauce, they were bona fide Italian until the first bite. Instead of ragu, the exterior crumbled into mouthfuls of tangy kimchi fried rice! The combination of creamy cheese and pickled vegetables was downright addictive.

Premium Rice Cake Gratin ($12.9)

The rice cake aspect of the Premium Rice Cake Gratin ($12.9) was hardly groundbreaking, but when they’re baked in a spicy sauce with a crust of melted cheese and bacon bits, the whole dish took on a wonderfully indulgent and European twist. 

Simmered Premium Pork Belly ($15.9)

Though listed as a tapa, the Simmered Premium Pork Belly ($15.9) was big enough as a main for one, at least. This dish was a lot more traditional, and was essentially a kimchi pork belly stew, served deconstructed. 

Simmered Premium Pork Belly ($15.9)

Two large, decadent steaks of tender pork belly swam in a light, gingery broth. I found that the soup needed the kimchi to perk it up, but once I slid the vegetables into the pot, every bite was comforting goodness.

Table by S is unlike any Korean restaurant I’ve ever been to; indeed, its unique style of Korean fusion is in a category all of its own. Add that to the lovely atmosphere and attentive service, and you have a restaurant that’s bound to impress.

Rating: 14/20 – who is S?

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Saint Crispin

300 Smith St

Collingwood, VIC 3066

http://www.saintcrispin.com.au/

If 2014 has taught me anything, it’s that sleeping past 7am is a blessing, and that Modern Australian food isn’t as boring as I thought. Not that I would choose it over Spanish food, but when a co-worker suggested Saint Crispin for Chris and my anniversary meal after I had failed to book Attica two months in a row, I readily accepted her idea.

Saint Crispin sky-rocketed to fame in the short time it’s been open, earning itself one hat and the title of ‘best new restaurant’ in 2013, before elevating itself to an elusive two hats in 2014. However it’s down to earth in a way only Fitzroy/Collingwood manages to be, and despite being nothing short of fine-dining, the restaurant felt a lot more like lazy Sunday lunch.  

House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream

Unable to decide between 5 and 7 courses (do we really need 3 mains and 2 desserts?), I was delighted to discover that the 6 Course Chefs’ Tasting Menu ($120pp) was also an option. With that matter settled, we started off with House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream. The bread was soft and crusty, the butter spread like it was churned that very morning, and the little dollop of onion jam was dainty and sweet, like slivers of red onion seared briefly on a grill. 

Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd

Served alongside the bread was a complimentary starter of Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd. Good things come in small packages, and this one packed a surprising wallop of flavour. The crumbly tuile had a sticky-sweet nuttiness that almost made it dessert-like, but was reined in by the pungent goat’s curd and its accompanying sharpness.  

Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho 

The Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho was likely the most boring looking and sounding dish I’ve ever had the misfortune to be served in a degustation. Yet as I ate, the genius of it dawned on me. The dewy asparagus ribbons and spears were light and summery tossed in the parmesan gazpacho, yet the nuttiness of the oats hinted at something more substantial. It was a light starter that segued perfectly into the rest of our meal.

Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket

The Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket was the reason I felt unsatisfied with just 5 courses – I simply couldn’t leave without trying it. The meaty bricks of tuna, lightly seared, danced with the deep-sea brininess of mussels and shavings of calamari, whilst the pearls of tapioca slipped about with the sharp herbal aromas of rocket. To put it simply, this was a boggling array of textures and flavours that left us scratching our heads even as we licked our plates clean. 

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts is actually my first experience with tartare, and it surprised me with just how clean it tasted. Mixed with finely diced chives, onion, and the barest hint of garlic, the droplets of beef were plump and sweet, contrasting marvellously with the waxy saltiness of the bresaola. The addition of potato crisps and a single onion ring was a delightful touch of whimsy. 

Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas

The Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas came with a wave of prawn-scented foam reminiscent of sea spray.  The confit process was so gentle that the fish still looked pearly and barely cooked, but in reality it dissolved upon the tongue.

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The flavours of this dish were a beautiful tapestry of the best the ocean and land had to offer. The bed of risotto was of course perfectly cooked, each grain sweetened with peas and creamy with butter, and the morsels of prawn were plump and bouncy. 

Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake

The final savoury dish, and the richest one, was the Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake. A modern take on the provincial French classic, this was a delectably earthy finale to our mains. The chicken soaked up the umami of the shiitake mushrooms, whilst the fruitiness of the red wine shone through the gravy-like jus. I was however not a fan of the bacon and shiitake pastry – it tasted no better than a spring roll if you ask me!

Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf

Though generic-looking, the Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf was anything but. The bar of ganache was the richest, smoothest dark chocolate, and the smoky, woody aroma of fig leaf lifted it to something worthy of chefs’ hats. Meanwhile, Chris was raving about the crispy and lightly salted layer of biscuit at the bottom; in his words, it was ‘all about that base’. 

Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce

And to finish, the most delightful petite four of Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce. This tasted (very aptly) of Christmas; the cake was spicy and fruity, and the bourbon cream fluffy, tangy, and just a little bit naughty – but not too naughty for presents! 

Saint Crispin is lovely, and with Cutler and Co. – another fantastic Modern Australian experience – being so close by, I can’t help but draw comparison between the two restaurants. Whereas Cutler and Co. was deceptively simple, the frills and ribbons of our lunch at Saint Crispin actually revealed a very down-to-earth flavour palate. But that’s not to say it’s unrefined – every element of our meal was carefully thought out and put together. My only complaint would be the service, which was rather disinterested and aloof, but the meal itself was hard to fault.  

Rating: 16.5/20 – patron saint of good food.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Saigon Sally

2 Duke Street 

Windsor, VIC 3181

http://saigonsally.com.au/          

What do you do when you have a boyfriend who doesn’t like coriander? You get a new boyfriend. Well not quite, but K has always been BackupBF for all those meals where Chris would’ve moaned incessantly about the amount of herbs in the food. And seeing as Chris is getting back from Hong Kong the next day, I took the opportunity to hit up Saigon Sally with K. 

Remember Hanoi Hannah? The similar names ain’t coinkydink. Being just around the corner, Saigon Sally is the older, more sophisticated sibling, serving up modernised variants of Vietnamese cuisine. 

And though the interior of Saigon Sally looks suspiciously like an under-cover car park with a bar plonked into the middle, no one can say the vibe isn’t funky and downright cool. I was less of a fan of the loud music though; I mean, K talks quietly as it is, and I have a hunch that I may be a little bit deaf. 

Fried Chicken Ribs ($10, 4pcs)

I’m a completely sucker for Fried Chicken Ribs ($10, 4pcs) and their stellar meat to bone ratio. These little fried morsels were moist and tender, and not as flavoursome as I had anticipated. But wait! That wasn’t criticism! Unlike most restaurants, the accompanying dipping sauce here is more than just an afterthought. Once the chicken has been dipped into the sriracha mayo, it takes on a whole new personality. A fiery, tangy, and addictive personality. 

Banh Mi ($8)

I doubt I’m the first to say this, but the Banh Mi ($8) was exorbitantly priced for a sandwich that could fit on the palm of my tiny hands. Once I had bitten into it however, I became a lot less annoyed. After all, who could stay angry at a crisp roll stuffed with hot pulled pork and sriracha mayo, the Asian influence peeking out from behind a sprig of coriander and thinly sliced chilli. 

Eggplant XO ($16)

When I ordered Eggplant XO ($16), I was expecting the saucy dish of fried eggplant slathered in sauce. Instead we were served giant eggplant chips, coated in tempura batter that we could barely see, but was astonishingly crunchy. It wasn’t even a little bit oily, despite eggplant’s reputation for soaking that stuff up. The XO sauce was at the bottom in big dollops, the umaminess cranked up with chopped shiitake mushrooms, and not so salty that we couldn’t slather it onto the eggplant. This dish was refreshingly different, and a far cry from what I had anticipated. 

Braised Pork Belly ($25)

The Braised Pork Belly ($25) on the other hand was very familiar indeed. The succulent cubes of pork belly, slow-braised with soy and black pepper, is a taste that I had grown up with. K agreed that this dish may as well be re-named ‘Asian Mums’ Pork Belly’

Braised Pork Belly ($25)

Out of a combination of loyalty, and the fact that she really is a very good cook, I have to say that I liked mum’s version of this dish better. However I do plan on suggesting the addition of mint to her next time, as the cool, fresh leaves provide a fantastic counterpoint to the rich meat.

I know that Saigon Sally is meant to be a more sophisticated, semi-fusion affair, and though it achieves its goal admirably, I’m still a much bigger fan of the brighter, more wallet-friendly street snacks at Hanoi Hannah. Saigon Sally is the better choice if you want to have a nice sit-down meal (they also take bookings!), but between the two siblings, Hanoi Hannah is definitely my favourite sister.

Rating: 13/20 – sibling rivalry.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

KOBA

119 Hardware Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.eatkoba.com/

What happens when one person wants to eat Korean food whilst the other person wants Mexican? It sounds like a bad joke, and if it was one, the punch line would be: go to KOBA

I’m starting to think that the space KOBA occupies along Hardware Street is jinxed. In the last couple years, at least 3 different restaurants have come and gone, but it seems KOBA is here to stay. It’s a tiny place but it functions more as a takeaway than eat-in, though it does have a narrow bench lining the wall, and a couple of al fresco tables.

We arrived at about 7pm on a Friday (overtime again – my pharmacist and I turned over a whole ward!) to find a long line, and staff that were upbeat but scattered. It took a long time to get to the front of the line, and when we did, we found that they were out of fried chicken and sliders. On a 6 item menu. 

Tokpokki ($5)

Cutting our fried, delicious losses, we started with a bowl of Tokpokki ($5), which were pretty decent for the price. Though hardly subtle, the spicy bean paste was flavoursome, and soaked thoroughly into the sticky pieces of rice cake. The raw shredded cabbage on the other hand? Not so cool. 

Chicken Tacos ($7, 2pcs)

The Chicken Tacos ($7, 2pcs) sounded really good on paper, but once I saw that they were no longer in soft shells, their appeal diminished twofold. Seriously, who thought hard taco shells were a good idea? If I wanted that, I would’ve ordered nachos! Anyway, the toppings on these tacos were a tepid and unremarkable mix of grilled chicken, shredded cabbage, and spicy bean paste. I couldn’t taste the kimchi or salsa at all. For such a distinctive combination, the taste of these tacos was profoundly unremarkable.

Kimchi Fries ($7)

Topping off the lukewarm night was a box of lukewarm Kimchi Fries ($7). Once again, this was a study in wasted potential. The chips were too skinny to be able to get away with sogginess, and though the toppings of kimchi, cheese, onion relish, and sour cream promised to be a riot of delicious flavours, the reality was that they were rather bland, and had trouble attaching themselves to the chips.

I feel as if the meal would’ve gone quite differently had we been able to order the fried chicken and sliders that I had originally came to KOBA for, and what we ordered instead were poor substitutes indeed. KOBA not only made me sad with its long waits and subpar food, what disappointed me the most was all that wasted potential – Korean food and Mexican food have some of the most prominent and bold flavours, and a kimchi and grilled chicken taco could’ve gone so right, so easily!

Rating: 10/20 – sad face.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Kong BBQ

599 Church St 

Richmond, VIC 3121
http://www.kongbbq.com.au/

It was a beautiful day. I had finally finished my pharmacy registration exam, the weather was warm and breezy, and summer was more than just a hint in the clear blue skies. And what’s on the agenda? Food, of course. 

Photo via http://www.broadsheet.com.au/melbourne/food-and-drink/article/kong-restaurant-richmond

I remember back when Chin Chin just opened up; I was still in my early days at uni, and thus at perfect liberty to visit booming new restaurants at odd hours in order to avoid the queues. But when Kong BBQ, another venture of Chris Lucas, opened in Richmond earlier this year, I was in a bit of a pickle. Thankfully I had been allotted a morning exam, and Chris was lucky enough to knock off work early that day, and we were left with enough time to arrive at Kong just 20 minutes before the Friday night rush. 

The restaurant seats 60, but it’s a near thing. Though we rocked up early enough to score our choice of tables, those who arrived a little later had to make do with being squeezed onto a bar barely a hand span wide that lined the entryway, putting up with the jostling of the waiting throng at their backs. Both the size and the interior came as something of a surprise; given the success of Chin Chin, I imagine Chris Lucas could’ve afforded to plate his new restaurant in gold leaf. Instead he continued the warehouse trend, settling on a space that’s airy and minimalistic, with lots of light wood. 

Housemade Passionfruit and Lemon Soda ($6)/Coconut Crush ($9)

It ain’t a celebration without drinks, and although I had originally intended on getting one alcomohol, I found myself tempted instead by the Coconut Crush ($9), a slushee of young coconut juice and the fruits of the day – watermelon, apple, and a sprig of mint. This was just my poison, or rather, just my antidote to the stress of exams, the warm weather, and the rather meat-heavy meal we were about to have.

Housemade Passionfruit and Lemon Soda ($6)/Coconut Crush ($9)

Chris on the other hand had the Housemade Passionfruit & Lemon Soda ($6), which was fruity and fresh... and rather alcoholic. Turns out they had inadvertently made this soft drink into a cocktail, so boo to that. 

BBQ Chicken Ssam Roti Roll ($12)

The BBQ Chicken Ssam Roti Roll ($12) came as a big surprise. Held together tenaciously by the crisp roti was a messy mix of smoky chicken from the grill, lashings of kimchi, crunchy slaw, all slathered with spicy, earthy gochujang sauce. 

BBQ Chicken Ssam Roti Roll ($12

I had expected something greasy and over the top indulgent, but the combination of flavours and textures absolutely blew me away with how bright and vivacious they were. I’m salivating just thinking about it.

Wood Roasted Pumpkin ($14)

Pumpkin has been cropping up in unexpected and delicious places for me this year, and Kong’s offering was a solid wedge of Wood Roasted Pumpkin ($14), garnished with a tumble of edamame salsa and a gooey ramen egg. The pumpkin was delicious; the skin was burnished to a charred crisp, and the tender sweetness of middle augmented beautifully by the garlic and shallots in the savoury salsa. The ramen egg didn’t really belong anywhere, but the gooey, smoky flavours were so good that they didn’t need to. 

Kong Bossam BBQ Tray ($29)

The Kong Bossam BBQ Tray ($29) is for the people who can’t decide on anything, but want a bit of everything. This platter for two showcases 4 different meats cooked in the wood fire pits, to be mixed and matched to your heart’s content with a selection of pickles and stuffed into a lettuce leaf. Kind of like a gluten-free Korean taco!

Three fat and succulent slabs of pork belly falling apart at the seams, served with an entire tile of crackling on the side.

Saucy pulled chicken coated in an earthy gochujang sauce.

Pulled pork that broke apart as we tried to pick it up with our chopsticks melted in the mouth with a rich meatiness.

And thinly sliced beef brisket, covered in a smoky tomato sauce and tasting strangely Texan.

But this dish is a case where it is more than the sum of its parts. All of the meats were delicious in their own right, but they absolutely sang when paired up with tangy pickles, and wrapped in a vibrantly crunchy lettuce leaf. Add a dollop of the sticky-sweet walnut ssamjung, and you’ve got yourself an opera.

Coconut Sago with Passionfruit and Pineapple Trifle ($12)

And to top our amazing meal off was a dessert of Coconut Sago with Passionfruit and Pineapple Trifle ($12). Even in my full to bursting state, I found room to appreciate the cool layers of cream and summery fruit jelly, and the fluffy bed of sponge hidden at the bottom. I especially loved the contrast between the silken pop of sago and the crunch of passionfruit seeds. 

We enjoyed our meal at a leisurely place, the accommodating staff happy for us to take our time despite the long queues. I left Kong entirely satisfied, but also feeling a little bit bummed; I have hardly ever had such a nice meal, but when on earth am I going to be able to make it back to try the sticky ribs and miso butter corn?

(Note to self: Kong also does take-away.)

Rating: 16/20 – king kong.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.