El Sabor

500 Victoria Street 

North Melbourne, VIC 3051
http://www.elsabor.com.au/

They say hindsight is 20:20, and it’s only now that I’ve gone back to working full time that I realise that I took my time off from employment for granted. Instead of lying at home like a sack of dog food when I’m not looking for work, I could’ve taken the time to really de-stress and enjoy myself. On the plus side though, post-work dinners have regained their shine, and it was with great anticipation that I stepped into El Sabor, a-hankerin’ for a good Mexican meal. 

I felt instantly toastier when I walked through the door; the luridly orange walls reminded me incessantly of all things warm, and the decorations of a summer festival. The restaurant was mostly filled with happy locals who braved the moody Melbourne weather to get their fiesta fix. 

Having travelled extensively around Mexico, the owner of El Sabor, Dhi, knows what’s up with Mexican food. There is incredible passion for bringing a real taste of Mexico to Melbourne, and the food Dhi serves is what he loves to eat himself. Considering the fact that we could not stop salivating at the smell of the enchiladas at the next table, he is on to something good. 

Pozole

To start off, our stomachs were warmed with a bowl of traditional Pozole – not yet on the menu, but keep an eye out as the weather cools! Despite looking thin and unremarkable, the soup was a chorus of bold flavours that expanded on the palate in a burst of warmth, having been bravely seasoned with the heat of 2 types of chilli.

Pozole

Hidden beneath the surface was a jumble of chewy hominy kernels that soaked up the broth, and shredded pieces of slow-cooked chicken and pork. This is the ultimate in comfort food that brings frozen fingers and toes back to life. 

Tres Salsas con Totopos ($10)

We were served some Tres Salsas con Totopos ($10) in conjunction with the soup. Chris loved the ripe sweetness of the salsa, and the cooling of the sour cream, swirled into his pozole. I on the other hand lavished my attention on the generously zesty guacamole.

Calamari Fritos ($15)

The plate of Calamari Fritos ($15) was tantalisingly shallow-fried in a batter glowing with spice, and the calamari itself was the most tender I’ve ever had; it all but disintegrated on the tongue. Unfortunately the overall effect is a little dull, even with the addition of aioli and guacamole. After all, how can anything measure up to a spicy bowl of pozole?

Tamales de Pollo ($18, 3pcs)

The Tamales de Pollo ($18, 3pcs) on the other hand were anything but boring, despite its demure appearance.

Tamales de Pollo ($18, 3pcs)

The first thing that’ll tip you off is the smoky aroma exuding from the corn husk. Peel that back and you’ll find a soft corn dumpling stuffed full of spicy pulled chicken. All permeated with the smouldering aroma of corn on a grill. The condiments on the side were served in the colours of the Mexican Flag. Contrived? Maybe. But it is infinitely endearing. 

Alitas ($10, half dozen)

I love a good chicken wing, and its extra nice when they’re rubbed with spices and scorched with grill marks, like these Alitas ($10, half dozen) were. Each piece was succulent and smoky, and cut through with a cool drizzle of sharp jalapeno mayo.

Pescado Taco/Res Taco ($12, 2pcs)

I tend to judge a book by its cover, and a Mexican restaurant by its tacos, so this is what I had been looking forward to the most. The Pescado Taco ($12, 2pcs) consisted of large pieces of white fish in a sheer coating of corn-based batter, wrapped in a fragrant tortilla with the simple accompaniments of guacamole, chipotle mayo, and lettuce. The result was a light but moreish taco that I found thoroughly enjoyable.

Meanwhile, the Res Taco ($12, 2pcs) was the warm, earthy counterpart to the freshness of the fish. The giant wad of pulled beef was juicy and spicy, generously flavoured with chilli and cumin. Just make sure you eat this one first though, as the gravy does soak through the tortilla. 

Churros ($15, 5pcs)

Aside from dessert tequilas and cocktails, the menu contained three sweet options: crème caramel, corn cake, and Churros ($15, 5pcs). Whilst churros would normally be my last resort, I am so glad I wasn’t the one making decisions for once. The fingers of pastry were briefly fried for a crisp exterior and a gooey centre, but their full potential was not unleashed until it was dipped into the chocolate sauce. Consisting of a mix of Mexican chocolate, dark chocolate, and a slick of cream, the sauce tasted of nothing but sugar for a second or two, before the soft explosion of cocoa hit. It was a perfect balance of sweet and bitter, its creamy richness heated by the coating of powdered cinnamon on the churros.

In the end, El Sabor made good on its promise of delicious and authentic Mexican food, and I had serious food envy over the saucy enchiladas at the next table. And the best bit? They do deliveries within about a 7km radius, and Dhi told me for a fact that they often deliver to the staff and patients at my hospital. Now there’s a good option for lunch.

Rating: 14.5/20 – hospital fiesta.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of El Sabor.

Los Hermanos Mexican Taqueria

339 Victoria St 

Brunswick, VIC 3056
http://www.los-hermanos.com.au/

There’s nothing like a restaurant that makes a Monday feel like a Friday. It could be the crepe paper banners and candles burning in alcoves, or it could be the beer garden and music that makes you want to shake your hips (Mexican remix of Oasis, anybody?). No matter how you look at it, Los Hermanos Mexican Taqueria is a place for a party. 

Though I’m sure the range of bottles – some of them rather dubious-looking – get a few motors going, my attention is reserved exclusively for the small menu scrawled onto the blackboard covering an entire wall of the restaurant. Despite being a bar, there are also tacos aplenty for all involved – a sure sign that the food is as good as the drink. Spoiler: they were out of the ‘el flan’, and yes, I was disappointed.

Totopos ($5)

I always find Totopos ($5) hard to resist despite knowing that I probably shouldn’t, but ever since discovering ‘real’ tortilla chips, my chip-and-dip experience has never the same. These were unfortunately just ok. Though thickly cut and mostly crispy, I found some parts of the chips to be greasy and stale. And whilst the jalapeno salsa and chipotle mayo made for an interesting change, I would much rather a fresh bowl of tomato salsa.

De Carne ($5ea)/De Barbacoa ($6ea)

We ordered a fair bit of food, and they all came out in a rush at this point, leading to a mad scramble of photo-taking and taco-eating before the tortillas split from juices in the meat. Unfortunately I couldn’t quite make it in time to De Barbacoa ($6ea), a taco piled high with tender shredded lamb. Still, it was delicious despite the tortilla giving way, and we greatly enjoyed the hearty combination of grilled meat and salad.

De Carne ($5ea) on the other hand was a lovely contrast to the lamb taco’s richness. Twice cooked in chipotle salsa and topped generously with jalapeno sauce, this was a lighter but zestier option that really got the tastebuds going with its bright flavours. 

De Pescado ($6ea)/Mushroom Taco ($5ea)

My all-time favourite taco would have to be the fish taco at Fonda Mexican, and I always make a point of ordering it whenever I see it on a menu. To date, I’ve yet to find one that I like just as much, and unfortunately De Pescado ($6ea) wasn’t an exception. Still, that’s not to say the large fillet of battered fish on shredded purple cabbage and drizzled with chipotle mayo was no good. Though the fish was softer than I would like, the overall flavour is a familiar and fun one, the fish a perfect vehicle for the crunch of the slaw and the spice of the sauce.

Mushroom Taco ($5ea)/De Pescado ($6ea)

I love meat and I hate sour cream, so it was a wonder of wonders when I found the Mushroom Taco ($5ea) – the Spanish name was covered by a bottle of tequila – to be my favourite by far. The mushrooms, already thick and juicy, were tipped over the edge by crumbly goat’s cheese that’s ever so faintly caramelised by the heat. Even the sour cream played a part, providing each mouthful with a tangy coolness.

Gorditas ($6, 2pcs)

Gorditas ($6, 2pcs)

Having never seen Gorditas ($6, 2pcs) before, I had to have them. These crisp little pockets made from corn flour were filled with a gooey, creamy mix of refried beans and two cheeses (ricotta and mozzarella). On their own they weren’t remarkable, but it was a match made in heaven when paired with the sour, spicy, and very slightly nutty slaw.

I love Los Hermanos not only for the food, but for the wonderfully festive vibe as well. Every element of our experience conspired to make dinner feel like a holiday, with the cheap street-styled food being the ultimate clincher. Though, can you believe that Ethan lived nearby for the last year but has never told me about this place? He swears he has, but I’m onto him – he just wants to keep this gem all to himself.

Rating: 15/20 – you don’t make friends with salad!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

KOBA

119 Hardware Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.eatkoba.com/

What happens when one person wants to eat Korean food whilst the other person wants Mexican? It sounds like a bad joke, and if it was one, the punch line would be: go to KOBA

I’m starting to think that the space KOBA occupies along Hardware Street is jinxed. In the last couple years, at least 3 different restaurants have come and gone, but it seems KOBA is here to stay. It’s a tiny place but it functions more as a takeaway than eat-in, though it does have a narrow bench lining the wall, and a couple of al fresco tables.

We arrived at about 7pm on a Friday (overtime again – my pharmacist and I turned over a whole ward!) to find a long line, and staff that were upbeat but scattered. It took a long time to get to the front of the line, and when we did, we found that they were out of fried chicken and sliders. On a 6 item menu. 

Tokpokki ($5)

Cutting our fried, delicious losses, we started with a bowl of Tokpokki ($5), which were pretty decent for the price. Though hardly subtle, the spicy bean paste was flavoursome, and soaked thoroughly into the sticky pieces of rice cake. The raw shredded cabbage on the other hand? Not so cool. 

Chicken Tacos ($7, 2pcs)

The Chicken Tacos ($7, 2pcs) sounded really good on paper, but once I saw that they were no longer in soft shells, their appeal diminished twofold. Seriously, who thought hard taco shells were a good idea? If I wanted that, I would’ve ordered nachos! Anyway, the toppings on these tacos were a tepid and unremarkable mix of grilled chicken, shredded cabbage, and spicy bean paste. I couldn’t taste the kimchi or salsa at all. For such a distinctive combination, the taste of these tacos was profoundly unremarkable.

Kimchi Fries ($7)

Topping off the lukewarm night was a box of lukewarm Kimchi Fries ($7). Once again, this was a study in wasted potential. The chips were too skinny to be able to get away with sogginess, and though the toppings of kimchi, cheese, onion relish, and sour cream promised to be a riot of delicious flavours, the reality was that they were rather bland, and had trouble attaching themselves to the chips.

I feel as if the meal would’ve gone quite differently had we been able to order the fried chicken and sliders that I had originally came to KOBA for, and what we ordered instead were poor substitutes indeed. KOBA not only made me sad with its long waits and subpar food, what disappointed me the most was all that wasted potential – Korean food and Mexican food have some of the most prominent and bold flavours, and a kimchi and grilled chicken taco could’ve gone so right, so easily!

Rating: 10/20 – sad face.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

La Condesa

234 Johnston Street 

Fitzroy, VIC 3065

http://lacondesa.com.au/

I’m all about the Mexican food, and whilst a beer garden with a taco truck would be a smashing place to dine in summer, I’m not so sure about now, given the winter we’ve been having so far. Luckily, La Condesa has now expanded itself into a little Mexican cantina with a healthy dose of Fitzroy. And whilst it’s more of a bump-and-grind bar at the launch event, we were assured that on any other day, we’d enter the side door to find a sunny little spot for drinks and tacos. 

Tromba Palomas ($10)

Proudly named after a bohemian district in Mexico, La Condesa is pretty big on the tequila. Lining the bar was a row of pink drinks with salt-encrusted rims in the making, which we later found out were Tromba Palomas ($10), a refreshing blend of grapefruit, agave, lime, and of course, tequila. Lightly carbonated and pulled through a beer tap, this is a fun little party starter that won’t break the bank.   

 Tortilla Chips with Guacamole

Ceviche ($12)

 Alitas ($15, dozen; $8, half dozen) 

Elotes ($5)

Then the party food came out. We were served Tortilla Chips with Guacamole, the green dip tangy and just a little spicy. Small Ceviche ($12) rafts of delicate snapper and a citric combination of tomatoes and orange segments. Alitas ($15, dozen; $8, half dozen) – slightly too sweet but very flavoursome chicken wings marinated in chipotle and agave glaze. And finally, Elotes ($5), an inventive take on corn, the juicy kernels mixed with queso, sour cream, and a sprinkling of chipotle peppers.

Unfortunately it was a school night, so we couldn’t stay forever, but the nibbles we managed to try piqued our interest enough for a repeat visit in the near future. But of course, the promise of 3 tacos for $12 isn’t something I would turn down regardless.

Rating: to be continued...

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of La Condesa. 

Fonda Flinders

31 Flinders Lane 

Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://www.fondamexican.com.au/

Mexican food is made for Fridays, and as I have said before, I am awfully Fonda Mexican food. And when I ended up working more than an hour overtime on a Friday afternoon with no extra pay, a Mexican pick-me-up from Fonda Flinders was exactly what I needed. 

Unlike the branch at Richmond, the baby of the group, Fonda Flinders is enormous. But it’s not impersonal; not only is the down-to-earth feel of the original restaurant retained, they even managed to inject an extra shot of festivity into the air. It could’ve been the wide open space full of happy voices bouncing off the walls, or it could’ve just been the fact that everyone was looking forward to a long weekend, but I felt instantly happier the moment we stepped inside. 

Horchata ($6)

My love affair with Horchata ($6) began at Fonda Mexican, and now we’ve come full circle. This is definitely the best place to get horchata in Melbourne; clinking with ice cubes, the drink was sweet and faintly milky, sweetened with condensed milk and whole sticks of cinnamon. 

Tortilla Crisps ($7)

I’m definitely a grilled corn sort of gal, but I won’t say no to good Tortilla Crisps ($7) either. The tortilla chips were thick and crunchy, lovely with the tangy guacamole, but not so good with the salsa, which was watery and had a funny taste to it. I’ll admit I didn’t pay the most attention to them though, as Chris and I were busy making calf’s eyes at each other. 

Fish Taco ($7)

Fonda does some of the best tacos around town, and no matter how many tacos I eat, the Fish Taco ($7) will always be one of my favourites. It’s not just the delicate cubes of fried rockling, the generously spicy chipotle mayo, or even the crunchy pickled vegetables on top. It’s the way the three elements come together to form one delicious package that delights the palate with a whole spectrum of flavours and textures. 

Braised Pork Taco ($6)

The Braised Pork Taco ($6) had a distinctly more tropical tone to it; the fat wad of pulled pork was juicy and spicy, topped with honeyed chunks of pineapple. It was so juicy in fact that the soft tortilla split in two halfway through. There is no way I would dream of faulting how the tortilla itself tasted but, maybe a little work on structural integrity guys?

Wagyu Shin Taco ($6)

Since my last visit, Fonda seemed to have upgraded the braised beef taco to a Wagyu Shin Taco ($6), and the outcome was rich and succulent. The entire taco exuded warmth and heartiness, the smoky beef draped with plump strips of green poblano peppers, and sweet croutons of jicama, aka Mexican yam. 

Grilled Chicken Quesadilla ($14)

I usually make a pretty good guess at what is and isn’t a winning dish on a menu, but after the disastrous mushroom quesadilla from my last Fonda visit, I gave in and let Chris choose the Grilled Chicken Quesadilla ($14). And I have to say, it tasted almost as amazing as it looked. The tortilla was crisp and darkly smoky, sandwiching grilled chicken and oozy strands of cheese, best eaten dipped into the lemon mayo on the side. It looks like second time was the charm.

The menu at Fonda Flinders is exactly the same as what you’ll find at their other restaurants, and this visit served as a reminder as to just why Fonda will always have a special place on the Mexican scene. They’re not afraid to go bold with their flavours, and it’s just such a fun, relaxing place to be. It’s impossible not to be in a good mood after eating here; go on, I dare you to prove me wrong.

Rating: 15/20 – still fonda mexican.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Los Amates Mexican Kitchen

34 Johnston St 
Fitzroy, VIC 3065

http://www.losamates.com.au/

We’ve come a long way. From being a cuisine that’s associated with orange cheese and refried beans, Mexican food has since in the last few years evolved into a sparkling, vivacious cuisine. Some of it is homely, some of it is almost-fine-dining, but a lot of it is delicious. The orange cheese has long-since been replaced with queso.

That said though, Los Amates Mexican Kitchen has been around for over a decade. Like a true lady, it seemed quiet and unassuming from the exterior, but the moment you walk inside you are faced with an explosion of colour and personality. It was festively decked out with memorabilia and paper cuttings hung from wall to wall, and a gorgeous mural splashed across the back room. 

Horchata ($3.8)

Not even winning the lottery could possibly feel better than when Horchata ($3.8) is on the menu. This fabulous ethnic drink is grossly under-represented, and the last time I had this delicious cinnamon rice milk was at Fonda Mexican, where I fell in love with the beverage that is simultaneously warming and refreshing. This version was served tall and very sweet, and I loved the hint of creaminess. 

Papa Con Nopales ($8.5)

When I was younger, my parents always called me potato head. Combine that with a love of trying unusual foods, and I jumped straight onto the special of Papa Con Nopales ($8.5), described as cactus and potato cooked with an Ancho chilli sauce. Served with two fragrant tortillas, we essentially had a starter of two vegetarian tacos, the filling soft and mild like a veggie stew.

Pulpo Enamorado ($15)

I’m not a big fan of corn chips (though Chris loves them), but I will concede they’re about as good as topping-vehicles get. In our case, we opted for Pulpo Enamorado ($15), a generous serving of octopus in creamy dressing with salsa. The pieces of octopus were fresh and addictively chewy, spiced up with coriander, onions, and a hint of chilli in the tangy dressing. Whilst Chris spent his time picking around the coriander, I demolished the entire dish. 

Tacos de Res con Rajas ($22.5)

Arguably, the dish that everyone comes here for are the tacos. Instead of being served up at $6 a pop, these are served up in true Mexican spirit – DIY and shared. Our choice of filling – Tacos de Res con Rajas ($22.5) – was mouth-watering. Thin strips of steak were grilled with a medley of onions and peppers, resulting in rich, smoky, and succulent pieces of beef. And on the side, the most adorable little basket of tortillas wrapped warm and snug in coloured cloth. It was served with two salsas and pureed black beans, but I enjoyed the plain beef in tortillas best of all.  

Pastel de Elote ($7.5)

Having not eaten nearly as much of the octopus as I had, Chris insisted on dessert, and the Pastel de Elote ($7.5) was a sweet ending indeed. Flavoured with corn kernels and honey, our slice of cake was fluffy and hot, and we fought for the last spoonful (well, metaphorically; we actually shared it like respectable adults). And whilst calling half a strawberry a ‘berry coulis’ is stretching the truth to shattering point, we didn’t mind a single bit.

Los Amates advertises itself as the only authentic Mexican restaurant in Victoria, and whilst I’m not entirely sold on that point, I will concede that it serves up the most legitimate meal of home-styled Mexican food I’ve had to date. The staff bantered in Spanish, and whilst I had a bit of trouble understanding them through their luscious accents and over the music, it is all part of the charm. Here is Mexican food served as it was intended – homely, flavoursome, and fun.

Rating: 14/20 – mexican mama’s meals.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.