Xeôm

194 Smith St 

Collingwood, VIC 3066
http://www.xeom.com.au/

As a pharmacist (and someone with common sense), I totally understand the need for the Food Safety Standards, but I can’t help but feel a little resentful that as a result, the closest we get to street food is the burger truck. As a result, I spend most of my time scurrying between, and trying to find new restaurants that serve street-styled food because hey, it’s cheaper than flying overseas. 

A while back, on my way to Peko Peko, I spied with my little eyes Xeôm – a shiny new Vietnamese street-food restaurant in the heart of hipster country. Before too long, I was back on a warm afternoon to try their selection of rolls, salads, and noodles. It seemed  like a lot of people had the same idea as me, and the hip new restaurant filled up before too long. 

I was a little disappointed to discover, upon closer inspection, that the menu was more along the lines of Vietnamese staples marketed as street food. After all, rice paper rolls are still rice paper rolls, even if you rebrand them as ‘sexy rolls’, mark up the price, and serve them in a chilled-out restaurant decked with shelves of Vietnamese canned foods. Still, that’s not necessarily a bad thing, and I was still eager to see what Xeôm had to offer. 

Grilled Chicken and Spring Rolls Vermicelli Noodle Salad ($13)

Our first dish was the Grilled Chicken and Spring Rolls Vermicelli Noodle Salad ($13), aka bún. The presentation certainly won it some points right off the bat – the salad was scrubbed squeaky clean and divvied out into little portions, and the large chicken chop had tantalisingly charred edges. 

Grilled Chicken and Spring Rolls Vermicelli Noodle Salad ($13)

When mixed through with fish sauce, this was your classic Vietnamese vermicelli salad, albeit with more care taken with the ingredients. The chicken was stand-out – hot and juicy with a hint of lemongrass, but the spring rolls were disappointing in that they weren’t the crunchy rice-paper kind, but the frozen cocktail kind. The overall flavour was a bit less punchy than you’d expect for Vietnamese food, and unfortunately the only herb was a small pinch of wilted mint. Thankfully, the overall impression of the salad was of delicacy, rather than blandness.

Combination Pork and Prawn Crispy Vietnamese Pancake ($14.8) 

Combination Pork and Prawn Crispy Vietnamese Pancake ($14.8) 

The bánh xèo – or as it’s called here, the Combination Pork and Prawn Crispy Vietnamese Pancake ($14.8) – is Vietnam’s answer to crepes. Except instead of sugar and butter, the crispy rice-based pancake is seasoned with turmeric, and stuffed with protein and bean shoots. 

Combination Pork and Prawn Crispy Vietnamese Pancake ($14.8) 

Combination Pork and Prawn Crispy Vietnamese Pancake ($14.8) 

This is one of those dishes that’s as tasty as it is fun. Sure you could eat it with a knife and fork but the best way to go about it it is with your hands. Rip up a piece of the pancake (make sure to get the meat and veggies as well), wrap it in a lettuce leaf, add as much or as little of the herbs as you would like, and dip it into the fish sauce. Though not mind-blowing in any aspect, this is a dish that’s just plain enjoyable to eat. 

Though I don’t do this very often, I had to double back and get my camera so I could take a snap of this awesome sink set-up.

I’ll be honest – the food at Xeôm is more or less the same as what you’d get at a halfway decent Vietnamese restaurant, except the prices are higher, the portions are smaller, and the tables are cleaner. All that said though, I was surprised to find that I actually quite liked my meal at Xeôm, because sometimes it’s nice to eat traditional Vietnamese food without worrying about why the tables are so sticky.

Rating: 12.5/20 – worth a try.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Peko Peko

199 Smith St 

Collingwood, VIC

I went to Peko Peko for dinner the other day. No, not this Peko Peko, this Peko Peko. If you ask someone from Japan, ‘peko peko’ is the sound your stomach makes if you’re hungry. Given that, it’s no surprise that both restaurants have a Japanese influence to some degree, despite being completely unrelated.

But whereas Peko Peko in South Melbourne is mostly Taiwanese with a bit of Japan thrown in for fun, this Peko Peko in Collingwood is full-blown Japanese. The interior was endearingly oriental, including the unique little upstairs section that opens out to the main restaurant, but it just can’t shake the hint of grunge so characteristic of the Melbourne inner-north. It was a good bit of fun, watching the Japanese chefs rub shoulders with backpacking waitresses. 

Hiyayakko ($6)

Heaps of people I know complain about tofu because it’s bland without any seasoning, which I think is entirely unfair. I mean really, you can say that same about rice or pasta – it’s MEANT to be had with seasoning. Anyway, aside from being a fan of tofu with century egg, Hiyayakko ($6) is another favourite way of mine to have tofu. The flavour palette of this cold dish was spot on, the soy sauce and bonito flakes a lovely combination of umami, whilst the surprise addition of grated pickled ginger added a zesty heat. Unfortunately it was let down by the tofu, which instead of being fresh and silky, has started down the road to being clumpy and spongy. 

Makizushi ($10, 8pcs)

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Makizushi ($10, 8pcs) was a generous serve of salmon and tuna hand rolls. Though nothing special, it was nice to be given a chance to down a large serve of sushi, with plenty of pickled ginger between bites to clear the palette. 

Currydon ($16)

The Currydon ($16) was listed under the ‘big food’ section, but I wasn’t prepared for just how substantial a bowl filled to the brim with curry and rice was. 

Currydon ($16)

When mixed through, the rice and sauce was rich and sticky, and the large pieces of chicken extremely tender. There was the addition of several unorthodox, but welcome vegetables such as capsicum and spinach. What I discovered very soon however, was that this was an extremely oily curry – within minutes, a small pool of oil had collected in the spoon that I had left in the rice. That certainly explained why this was even more filling than a standard curry.

I can’t quite put my finger on it, but Peko Peko felt different to all of the other Japanese restaurants I’ve been too. Either way, regardless of what that difference might be, a good solid meal can be found here; it may be a little more expensive than what you’re used to, but the portions are certainly generous, and the flavours are pretty close to the real thing. 

Oh, and look at this awesome piece of graffiti art I found down the road!

Rating: 13/20 – grumble grumble.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Saint Crispin

300 Smith St

Collingwood, VIC 3066

http://www.saintcrispin.com.au/

If 2014 has taught me anything, it’s that sleeping past 7am is a blessing, and that Modern Australian food isn’t as boring as I thought. Not that I would choose it over Spanish food, but when a co-worker suggested Saint Crispin for Chris and my anniversary meal after I had failed to book Attica two months in a row, I readily accepted her idea.

Saint Crispin sky-rocketed to fame in the short time it’s been open, earning itself one hat and the title of ‘best new restaurant’ in 2013, before elevating itself to an elusive two hats in 2014. However it’s down to earth in a way only Fitzroy/Collingwood manages to be, and despite being nothing short of fine-dining, the restaurant felt a lot more like lazy Sunday lunch.  

House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream

Unable to decide between 5 and 7 courses (do we really need 3 mains and 2 desserts?), I was delighted to discover that the 6 Course Chefs’ Tasting Menu ($120pp) was also an option. With that matter settled, we started off with House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream. The bread was soft and crusty, the butter spread like it was churned that very morning, and the little dollop of onion jam was dainty and sweet, like slivers of red onion seared briefly on a grill. 

Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd

Served alongside the bread was a complimentary starter of Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd. Good things come in small packages, and this one packed a surprising wallop of flavour. The crumbly tuile had a sticky-sweet nuttiness that almost made it dessert-like, but was reined in by the pungent goat’s curd and its accompanying sharpness.  

Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho 

The Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho was likely the most boring looking and sounding dish I’ve ever had the misfortune to be served in a degustation. Yet as I ate, the genius of it dawned on me. The dewy asparagus ribbons and spears were light and summery tossed in the parmesan gazpacho, yet the nuttiness of the oats hinted at something more substantial. It was a light starter that segued perfectly into the rest of our meal.

Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket

The Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket was the reason I felt unsatisfied with just 5 courses – I simply couldn’t leave without trying it. The meaty bricks of tuna, lightly seared, danced with the deep-sea brininess of mussels and shavings of calamari, whilst the pearls of tapioca slipped about with the sharp herbal aromas of rocket. To put it simply, this was a boggling array of textures and flavours that left us scratching our heads even as we licked our plates clean. 

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts is actually my first experience with tartare, and it surprised me with just how clean it tasted. Mixed with finely diced chives, onion, and the barest hint of garlic, the droplets of beef were plump and sweet, contrasting marvellously with the waxy saltiness of the bresaola. The addition of potato crisps and a single onion ring was a delightful touch of whimsy. 

Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas

The Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas came with a wave of prawn-scented foam reminiscent of sea spray.  The confit process was so gentle that the fish still looked pearly and barely cooked, but in reality it dissolved upon the tongue.

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The flavours of this dish were a beautiful tapestry of the best the ocean and land had to offer. The bed of risotto was of course perfectly cooked, each grain sweetened with peas and creamy with butter, and the morsels of prawn were plump and bouncy. 

Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake

The final savoury dish, and the richest one, was the Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake. A modern take on the provincial French classic, this was a delectably earthy finale to our mains. The chicken soaked up the umami of the shiitake mushrooms, whilst the fruitiness of the red wine shone through the gravy-like jus. I was however not a fan of the bacon and shiitake pastry – it tasted no better than a spring roll if you ask me!

Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf

Though generic-looking, the Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf was anything but. The bar of ganache was the richest, smoothest dark chocolate, and the smoky, woody aroma of fig leaf lifted it to something worthy of chefs’ hats. Meanwhile, Chris was raving about the crispy and lightly salted layer of biscuit at the bottom; in his words, it was ‘all about that base’. 

Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce

And to finish, the most delightful petite four of Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce. This tasted (very aptly) of Christmas; the cake was spicy and fruity, and the bourbon cream fluffy, tangy, and just a little bit naughty – but not too naughty for presents! 

Saint Crispin is lovely, and with Cutler and Co. – another fantastic Modern Australian experience – being so close by, I can’t help but draw comparison between the two restaurants. Whereas Cutler and Co. was deceptively simple, the frills and ribbons of our lunch at Saint Crispin actually revealed a very down-to-earth flavour palate. But that’s not to say it’s unrefined – every element of our meal was carefully thought out and put together. My only complaint would be the service, which was rather disinterested and aloof, but the meal itself was hard to fault.  

Rating: 16.5/20 – patron saint of good food.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Proud Mary

172 Oxford Street
Collingwood, VIC 3066

proudmarycoffee.com.au

Proud Mary ought to be proud. Having been awarded best cafe in the Age Good Cafe Guide, as well as being the fourth most popular brunch spot on Urbanspoon, this moderately-sized but bright and chic cafe has what every Melbournian is supposed to love. All day breakfast, great coffee, communal tables, and exposed brick walls.

I seriously regretted not ordering a coffee when, just two hours later, I found out that Proud Mary is considered to have some of the best, if not THE best coffee in Melbourne. My own fault really; the half a dozen baristas lovingly pouring milk into lattes and playing with their barista toys, including a whole set of shiny siphon bulbs, should’ve been more than sufficient indication that the coffee was going to be brilliant. I should’ve gotten a flat white and one of those wicked looking chocolate cakes from the counter.

Berry Smoothie ($6)

Whilst waiting for our food, K slurped down a Berry Smoothie ($6). A tall glass rippled with condensed milk is filled with a frothy pastel pink beverage, which I found to be milky, mild and really quite a lovely drink. However it pays to note that generally speaking, I hate anything berry; berry-loving K on the other hand mercilessly called it bland.

Potato Hash ($16.5)

Working as a team, we agreed on two dishes we both wanted to try, and swapped halfway. The first one was the Potato Hash ($16.5), topped with buttery spinach, generous rashers of grilled bacon, and served with a poached egg and some bagna cauda. There’s nothing you wouldn’t expect here, except for the faint fishiness from the bagna cauda, which I found gave the dish some character. The rosti was a bit soggy, more like eating mashed potato by the end (not that there’s anything wrong with that), but the egg was perfectly runny, and the bacon was grilled to a meaty crisp. The mashed potato masquerading as a rosti aside, it’s a very well-executed classic.

McIvor Farm Pork Ragu ($17)

Because it was past noon, we sauntered out of breakfast land and took a stroll in lunch country, before settling on the McIvor Farm Pork Ragu ($17), served on house-made pappardelle. The 24 hour braised pork was as soft as any mince, though I couldn’t taste any of the promised fennel. But that’s ok, because I don’t really like fennel. The wide ribbons of pasta folded into layers on the plate were lusciously slippery yet satisfyingly chewy, a textbook example of al dente. Gulped down with the musty parmagiano shavings melting into the hearty ragu, it brought smiles and some much-needed warmth to the shortest day of the year.

Proud Mary is another safe and pleasant choice in the Melbourne cafe scene. I wasn’t blown away by the food, which was fairly simple and stumbled occasionally in execution. However the food still remains highly enjoyable despite the lack of bells and whistles, and watching the baristas furiously churning out all sorts of different coffee is a treat. 

Rating: 14.5/20 – be proud.