Chat Thai

20 Campbell St 
Haymarket, NSW 2000

http://www.chatthai.com.au/

Remember what I said about the perks of Sydney? Well aside from ramen, the other thing Sydney does way better than Melbourne is Thai food. After an agonising night trying to decide between two of the most popular Thai restaurants, I settled on Chat Thai, located right near our hotel, in Thai Town.

Considering how busy it was, Chat Thai really should be bigger. But I was happy to be seated in the cosy restaurant within 40 minutes, perusing their extensive menu consisting of a selection of authentic Thai street food.

Fresh Spring Rolls ($12)

Fresh Spring Rolls ($12)

I’m not usually one to order spring rolls, but I’ve heard good things about the Fresh Spring Rolls ($12). It certainly was something different – a cylinder of fish sausage, crab, and chicken, wrapped tightly in fresh rice paper and covered in sticky tamarind relish. It wasn’t mind-bendingly good, but it made for a promising start to the night. 

Nahm Drok Nuea ($14)

Nahm Drok Nuea ($14)

I held my breath as I put the first piece of Nahm Dtok Nuea ($14) into my mouth, and hallelujah it was delicious! The salad of succulent grilled beef was garnished with herbs, onions, and generous lashings of lime and chilli that woke my tastebuds up with a bang. It was a beautifully vivacious dish, overcrowded with a myriad of Asian flavours. 

Grapao Gai Sub ($14)

Equally as delicious, though perhaps not as confronting, is the Grapao Gai Sub ($14). The simple stir fry of chicken mince and holy basil, interspersed with chopped chilli and garlic, had layers of flavour and plenty of spice, yet was still comforting and immensely satisfying eaten with a bowl of Jasmine Rice ($3).

I’m not usually one for Asian desserts, but the menu at Chat Thai had me salivating. Unfortunately most of their vast dessert menu was subject to availability, so we had to make our choices from a smaller pool of treats.

Sticky Rice and Mango ($8)

I haven’t had Sticky Rice and Mango ($8) for a while, usually deeming it too simple to be worth my time and money, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t one of my favourite things to eat. The combination of slippery-sweet mango and sticky rice was a timelessly moreish pairing of sweet and salty, and soft and chewy, all drizzled in a thick coconut cream.

Tao Tang ($6)

We finished our meal with a light bowl of Tao Tang ($6), a refreshingly sweet bowl of herbal longan juice ladled over a cornucopia of Asian jewels, including dates, lotus seeds, tapioca balls, and dozens more. Topped with crushed ice, this was a restorative palate cleanser that made for a perfect ending to our sumptuous feast.

I could not find a thing to dislike about Chat Thai; well, there was the wait, and the service wasn’t crash-hot, but I’d happily eat off the floor if the food is going to be this good. Chat Thai is so scrumptious that it makes me cry. Or maybe it’s just the chilli.

Rating: 16.5/20 – on-de-palate-dance

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Bills

359 Crown St 
Surry Hills, NSW 2010

http://www.bills.com.au/

For all the raving I’ve done about the food in Sydney, I haven’t forgotten about Melbourne. After all, who could forget the hipster cafes, hidden laneways, and excellent brunch on every other street corner? So it was with a mixture of nostalgia (already!) and curiosity that Chris and I visited Bills, one of the most-lauded brunch spots in Sydney, to see how it stacks up against home. 

Step inside Bills, and the difference between Melbourne and Sydney are thrown into stark contrast. Bills was all clean lines and bright furniture, with everything in its right place. The staff were polite but not as bubbly, and there was not a single hipster beard or tattoo to be seen!

Ricotta Hotcakes ($20)

I was most excited to try Bill Granger’s famous Ricotta Hotcakes ($20), served with a banana, a disc of honeycomb butter, and an entire pot of maple syrup. I won’t deny it – these were delicious. The pillowy hotcakes were delightfully decadent with lashings of maple syrup and the salty-sweet butter, but didn’t leave you feeling over-indulged.

Ricotta Hotcakes ($20)

To look at it from another angle however, these were nothing remarkable, and I could probably be equally as satisfied had I ordered the same thing from Pancake Parlour. 

Sweetcorn Fritters ($21.5)

Less raved about, but just as adored, are the Sweetcorn Fritters ($21.5) – two golden patties of juicy corn kernels that were barely held in check by the light, crisp batter. Interspersed with herbs and capsicum, I can honestly say these were some of the nicest fritters I’ve had.

Sweetcorn Fritters ($21.5)

Not so good unfortunately were the sides. The single rasher of accompanying bacon was undercooked and supremely unsatisfying, the raw spinach leaves would’ve done a lot better had they been wilted, and the half of a roasted tomato seemed almost like a soggy afterthought. Thank god for the fritters.

The price of the food at Bills is rather high, which would have been justified if the food was phenomenal, and though I found our meal to be tasty, it was quite run-of-the-mill. It’s not that the meal was bad, but having been spoilt by Melbourne’s choice and creativity, it really doesn’t stack up. If I were to move to Sydney for anything, it would not be for the brunch.

Rating: 13/20 – poor sydney-siders.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Din Tai Fung

644 George St
Sydney, NSW 2000

Level one, open air plaza

http://www.dintaifungaustralia.com.au/

It’s been a while. Ever since Hutong crashed and burnt, I haven’t had a good Xiao Long Bao (XLB). So it’s not surprising that my first stop on my Sydney food pilgrimage (and anniversary trip, Chris put in grumpily) is Din Tai Fung, where the legendary XLB have earned themselves an elusive Michelin Star.

At just before 8pm, we were facing a 15 minute wait. It felt a lot shorter though, as we were given menus to peruse in the interim. Not that there wasn’t plenty to look at – from the signature wall of bamboo steamers to the large paper lanterns, this is certainly not your average cheap and cheerful.

Most mesmerising of all though is the procession of dumpling chefs behind the glass window, methodically poking and prodding the XLB into neatly pleated parcels. The XLB all have at least 18 folds each, and are weighed and checked meticulously to ensure that each dumpling is the same. 

Xiao Long Bao ($10.8, 6 pieces)

The famous Xiao Long Bao ($10.8, 6 pieces) weren’t cheap at almost $2 per mouthful, but they were well justified. From the paper-thin skin to the saggy bottoms filled with delectable soup, and of course, the rich ball of pork mince, these little beauties can do no wrong. 

Xiao Long Bao ($10.8, 6 pieces)

However, as odd as this may sound, I had major issues with the vinegar. Unlike the good stuff, which is rich and complex, the vinegar served here was sharp and flat, taking away from, rather than adding to the XLB. 

Shrimp and Pork Wonton Soup ($10.8, 6 pieces)

I had wanted chilli wontons, but I had accidentally ordered the Shrimp and Pork Wonton Soup ($10.8, 6 pieces) instead. It was a happy mistake though, with fat wontons swimming in a surprisingly delicious soup, full of umami and porkiness. 

Cha Jiang Noodle with Minced Pork ($13.8)

Cha Jiang Noodle with Minced Pork ($13.8)

More substantial was the Cha Jiang Noodle with Minced Pork ($13.8), a humble but gratifying dish of al-dente noodles, smothered in ginger pork mince. 

Water Spinach with Garlic ($12.8)

And because we’re responsible grown-ups, a plate of Water Spinach with Garlic ($12.8) to counterbalance all the carbs and protein. Vegetables can be so tasty when they’re prepared to their maximum potential, and I can’t help but have mouthful after mouthful of these moreish greens. Flash-fried in a wok with a lick of oil and chopped garlic, these greens were crisp and fragrant, and simple but definitely but not boring.

So did Din Tai Fung live up to the hype? Not really, especially considering we shelled out a neat $50 for a light meal between two. But is it bad? DEFINITELY not. The food here is simple but well-done, and very true to tradition. So in other words, if you’re not a foodie who’s spent the last 5 years reading reviews and salivating over Din Tai Fung, odds are you’ll love the food here.

Rating: 14/20 – din-dins tai fung.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Gumshara Ramen

Shop 211 25-29 Dixon St 
Haymarket, NSW 2000

I may be a stolid Melbournian, but there is no denying that Sydney has its perks. The first one is ramen – Gumshara Ramen to be precise, serving up what’s almost unanimously agreed to be the best ramen in Sydney.

Located in an unglamorous food court that’s nevertheless a mecca for lovers of Asian cuisine, the small store front gives but a glimpse of what’s going on behind the scenes. Hundreds of kilos of pork bones in metal vats were slowly being reduced into a thick stock over not hours, but days.

Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($10.5)

Chris opted for just a plain bowl of Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($10.5). Now, the menu said that the soup was ‘thick’, but we weren’t prepared for just how gelatinous it was. The pork stock was so unctuous that it clung to the noodles, and almost solidified in the mouth. It was immensely gratifying, but also incredibly rich, and we had trouble finishing it. The pork and toppings weren’t anything special, but they got the job done. 

Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5)

Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5)

I like my ramen with a good hit of garlic, so the Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen Noodle ($11.5) with Soft Boiled Egg ($1.5) was just what the doctor ordered. Exactly the same as the tonkotsu ramen, but for a slick of garlic oil and a scattering of roasted garlic on top (and a soft boiled egg – you can’t have ramen without a perfect gooey egg) , it is perfect for those of you who like noodles with a little more oomph.

Gumshara ramen still isn’t quite as good as what I’ve been lucky enough to eat in Japan, but it comes pretty darn close. With its ridiculously thick pork stock and selection of self-serve pickles and condiments, it is a little slice of ramen heaven – lucky Sydney-siders!

Rating: 15/20 – ramen heaven.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

MoVida Sydney

50 Holt St 
Surry Hills, NSW 2010

http://www.movida.com.au/sydney/

This is why I came to Sydney. Ok maybe Chris’s 21^st and our anniversary and having some down-time together had something to do with it, but like any foodie, I travel to eat. And whilst I’ve had some great meals lined up, the one I was most excited for was MoVida Sydney, the newest member of the MoVida family by the Spanish genius, Frank Camorra. 

MoVida in Sydney is just like the MoVidas in Melbourne, yet not. The square bar and open-ish kitchen are still there, the dining room furnished with the same high tables and leather banquet chairs. The atmosphere however is much more one of fine dining, and significantly less exuberant than its Melbourne counterparts. The staff are also more restrained and professional – polite and friendly, but minus the jokes and banter. 

Complimentary Bread

I always forget about the complimentary bread at MoVida, and am subsequently twice as happy about it. The bread today was a dense heel of sourdough that’s very strong in flavour, served with reliably excellent olive oil.  

Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces)

We can never go past the croquetas at MoVida, as they are always impeccably fried with a decadently creamy interior, and the ones on offer today were the Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces). 

Croqueta de Jamon Iberico ($8.5, 2 pieces)

Just like we had expected, the golden shell cracked open to reveal a velvety center that tastes of lightly-spiced mashed potatoes and cheese. There was disappointingly little jamon in the croqueta, but then again, priced at $1/gram, that stuff doesn’t exactly grow on trees. 

Pimiento ($6.5ea)

The Pimiento ($6.5ea) was another deep-fried delight, though maybe not as magnificent as the croquetas. Lightly fried and stuffed with bacalao, aka dried and salted cod, this formed a harmonious little mouthful consisting of a balance of creamy, briny, and the faint sweetness of the piquillo peppers. 

Higado de Pollo ($16.5)

When I saw the Higado de Pollo ($16.5) on the specials menu, I had to have it. I’m a big lover of foie gras on the worst of days, and foie gras parfait with chicken liver by MoVida? Count me in. 

Higado de Pollo ($16.5)

Served with a bottomless supply of warm oat and orange toast, the buttery spread was a decadent backdrop for the garden of condiments. The bitter radish, tangy pickles, and citric kumquats were given free rein to play and mingle against the delicate airiness of the foie gras. 

Cecina ($24.5)

It’s a complete travesty that I have visited MoVida a total of 5 times, and never tried their most famous dish – the Cecina ($24.5), winner of The Age Good Food Dish of the Year in 2007. When I picture wagyu, I think a fat chunk of steak, charred on the grill. The cecina is nothing like that. Air-cured and sliced so thinly that the pattern of the plate was visible through it, this rendition of wagyu is served with the decadent accompaniments of truffle foam, olive oil, and a poached egg.

Cecina ($24.5)

But wait, there’s more! The Cecina is also a DIY dish, and we were instructed to break the egg, before mixing it in with the truffle foam and beef – to make a good mess of it, in a nutshell. 

Cecina ($24.5)

What you have in the end is essentially fatty slices of beef, covered in creamy egg yolk and frothy cauliflower foam, augmented with the aroma of truffles and olive oil. With each bite, my eyes rolled back into my head at the sheer sensuality of it all. 

Cordero ($18.5)

I was so over-indulged by the cecina that I couldn’t eat nearly as much of the Cordero ($18.5) as I had wanted. This was a much more rustic affair than paper-thin slices of wagyu. Two fatty pieces of lamb breast, unctuous and caramelised from slow-cooking, melted on the tongue in a perfect burst of sweet gaminess. The bed of peas and jamon provided an excellent foil of freshness.

Flan ($14.5)

We were full, but never too full for the Flan ($14.5), arguably our favourite dessert from MoVida. Though simple, this is a masterpiece of custard and egg. Faultlessly rich and silky, it melts in the mouth accompanied by a light caramel sauce. Served on the side are three crumbly fingers of aniseed pastries, but they were eaten with scorn compared to the flan.

Exactly 10 years from the opening of the very first MoVida in Hosier Lane, it’s good to see that Frank Camorra has not lost his touch. Just like all his other restaurants, MoVida Sydney is both refreshingly unique and instantly recognisable. The food here is seriously good without costing an arm and a leg, and I would recommend it to anyone with an empty (or even full!) stomach.

Rating: 16.5/20 – movida mad.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.