Tipo 00

361 Little Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.tipo00.com.au/

For the last couple of weeks, I’ve been treated to (and tortured by) a series of photos on Facebook of one of my friends, who is currently travelling around Italy. Whilst I may not be able to join in on the blue skies, clear waters, and beautiful historic sites, I can at least appease my craving with a good bowl of pasta.

My usual go-to place for authentic but classy pasta (as opposed to an enormous feed by nonna) is Grossi Cellar Bar, but I’ve been hearing increasingly about the new it place for Italian in the CBD – Tipo 00. After having worked at Vue de Monde for 4 years, as well as stints at other Melbourne fine-dining destinations, chef Andreas Papadakis has turned his talented hands to creating this cosy but refined little pasta bar. Since its opening late last year, Tipo 00 has quickly gained almost universal acclaim from both critics and diners. 

The 43-seater restaurant was predictably booked out for a Friday night, but we were confident of our chances of scoring some bar-seating if we showed up at about a quarter to six. For once, not even our habit of early dinners could save us, as the wait quoted was half an hour to 45 minutes (and get this: by 6:30, the wait-time was over an hour and a half). Luckily the restaurant gave us a call back within about 15 minutes, and though we were seated right by the door which let in draughts of cold air whenever anyone went in or out (and that’s extremely often), we were seated. 

Foccacia with Ricotta

The menu at Tipo 00 has been pared back, leaving nothing but a handful of entrees and pastas, and a few mains for the gluten-intolerant. Still, between the delectable specials and the debate of entree-vs-dessert, ordering was not as easy as you would expect. Once we had ordered however, we were rewarded with a plate of Foccacia with Ricotta. The bread was warm and crisp, seasoned with a moreish combination of sea salt and herbed oil. On the side was a cool dollop of ricotta, spreading smoothly and easily over the bread.

It was also at this point that some bar seating freed up, and the angelic staff asked if we would like to be moved – an incredibly considerate suggestion that made our dinner much less cold, and much more enjoyable. 

Spaghetti Affumicati ($24)

Though I’m happy to give anything a go, I will always order the spaghetti with clams if I see it on a menu. Tipo 00 served up a delicious plate of Spaghetti Affumicati ($24), consisting of spaghetti drenched in a gently briny broth with just a hint of ripe, smoky tomatoes and coarsely chopped parsley. Best of all were the thick, wheaty strands of pasta that satisfy the carb craving, whilst still being perfectly al dente. It was just as good, if not better than the spaghetti vongole at Grossi Cellar Bar. 

Gnocchi di Patate ($26) 

I never get food envy over Chris’ order, but there’s a first for everything, and the Gnocchi di Patate ($26) was deserving of my envy indeed. The gnocchi were draped with sticky braised duck and porcini mushrooms, the gravy rich and buttery, having extracted every last morsel of flavour in the process of slow-cooking. The gnocchi themselves were velvety pillows that melted in the mouth, its texture more like mashed potato than pasta, and were absolutely perfect for soaking up the sauce. Perfection was achieved with a generous grating of sharp pecorino cheese that brought the earthy, hearty flavours to life.   

Gnocchi di Patate ($26) 

Though the serve initially seemed small, it was indulgently rich, and there was almost as much duck as there was pasta. We ended up being entirely satisfied with the portion size. The waiter even offered us more bread to soak up the sauce, thus cementing their place in my heart. 

Pannacotta ($14)

After finishing our pasta, we were satisfied, but with plenty of room left for the Pannacotta ($14). The flawless disc of cream and sugar was thick and silky, and flecked through with aromatic vanilla bean. That would’ve been excellent just on its own, but it was complemented by a bouquet of honeyed berries that tasted of the peak of summer, and streaks of intensely fruity raspberry compote. My only regret is not having room to try their tipomisu.

Even though I’ve had plenty of pasta in my time, I find myself continuously astounded by just how delicious simple and well-cooked Italian food can be, and in my opinion, Tipo 00 makes what is arguably the best pasta in Melbourne. I have to say that pricing is a little painful, but instead of regret, all I felt as I walked out was smugness, courtesy of all the good pasta lining my tummy.

Rating: 16/20 – tipo of the pile.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Cumulus Up

45 Flinders Lane 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://cumulusinc.com.au/up/

If there’s one man I can admit to loving just as much as Frank Camorra, it would be Andrew McConnell (sorry Chris). Barring Golden Fields, which was just ok, there has been no Andrew McConnell experience that hasn’t left me foaming at the mouth with delight. I had promised to treat myself to dinner at Cumulus Up once I finally found a job, so here we are! 

If you haven’t caught on by now, Cumulus Up is the little sibling to the Modern Australian magnate, Cumulus Inc. And yes, it is up from Cumulus Inc. However, whereas Cumulus Inc. is airy and whitewashed, Cumulus Up is a European-styled wine bar buzzing with sophistication. The ambience is dark and sensuous, the dining room decorated with ample amounts of exposed brick and rough-hewn wood, topped off with a glimmering bar. 

Bread and Butter

Though the menu was only one page long, it was more than made up for by the thick, leather-bound wine list. But as usual, we’re here for the food, and before long we had ordered, and started on our plate of Bread and Butter in the interim. The sourdough was thickly sliced, with a chewy crust and a moist, doughy centre. It was the butter however that really stood out with its creamy texture and organic, milky taste. 

Grilled King Prawn, Crème Fraiche & Lemon ($9ea) 

When I smelt the smoky aroma of the Grilled King Prawn, Crème Fraiche & Lemon ($9ea) at the next table, I knew I had to have it. The morsels of prawn inside the charred shell were sweet and succulent, the vividly briny flavours brought out by the creamy sauce and a squeeze of lemon. Though pricy (and fiddly!), it was worth every cent. 

Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) 

The Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) is the signature dish at Cumulus Up, and there was nary a table without it. After spreading the rosette of foie gras into the waffle pockets and taking that first bite, the reason for its popularity becomes obvious.

Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) 

Biting through the crisp exterior of the waffle, we quickly discovered shreds of duck meat folded into the airy batter. Spread thickly with the ethereal foie gras and summery prune jam, I am happy to report that this is indeed the food of gods. 

Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) 

If there’s one thing Andrew McConnell taught me, it’s that sashimi does not need to be confined to Japanese cuisine. Especially if the result is as magnificent as one I had at Cutler and Co. So it was unsurprising that the Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) was a breathtaking work of art. The plump slices of sashimi peeked through the gauzy roasted kelp, highlighted with daubs of macerated tomato and pale green dill oil. 

Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) 

Despite the sheer intensity of the flavours, they matched the kingfish in daintiness. The thickly cut fish was adorned with the sweet citrus of apples and tomatoes, whilst the thick oyster mayo brought in another element from the ocean. It was topped off with the unexpected warmth from the brittle shards of kelp, forming a flavour palette that’s so vibrant yet harmonious that you really have to taste it to believe it. 

Peppered Butcher’s Steak, Hand-Cut Chips ($32) 

Coming back down to earth for the mains, we ordered the much simpler Peppered Butcher’s Steak, Hand-Cut Chips ($32) to share. Cut into 4 thick slices, each piece was deliciously pink with a salt-rubbed exterior, and then served with the most amazing pepper sauce. 

Hand-Cut Chips

The hand-cut chips were equally as good; rustic and fluffy, with plenty of little crispy bits.

Green Bean, Chopped Egg & Tarragon Vinaigrette ($12)

The obligatory greenery came in the form of Green Bean, Chopped Egg & Tarragon Vinaigrette ($12). The lush, crisp beans were flavoured with the contrasting creaminess of soft boiled eggs, and the sharp dressing. The result was a light yet balanced side dish that I had no trouble polishing up, even after all the steak was gone.

It’s hard to write a conclusion when the restaurant is so unequivocally amazing; I suppose the service could be improved, as I felt the restaurant was a little short-staffed and the waiters very business-like. But whatever, average service really doesn’t bother me, not when the food is so stupendously good.

Rating: 16.5/20 – in the clouds.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Ombra

76 Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.ombrabar.com.au/

As sad as I am to admit it, Friday night dates have sort of lost their shine ever since I’ve been out of a job. A nice meal out may still be enjoyable, but it just feels like I’ve done absolutely nothing to earn them. But am I going to stop having Friday night dates? NOPE.

Ombra opened quietly (or maybe I just wasn’t paying attention; I probably wasn’t paying attention) three years ago at the top end of Bourke Street, right next to the Grossi empire. That would normally be a terribly foolish move for any Italian restaurant trying to make it big, but not in this case, as Ombra is also a Guy Grossi venture. 

As you’d expect of the famous Italian chef, Ombra is an Italian wine bar at heart. There is a large cellar hidden under the stairs, and plenty of meats being cured in-house. The downstairs section is pretty but it’s got nothing on the enchanting upstairs section – a provincial Italian dining room, with a balcony that opens up to the leafy Paris-end of Bourke street. 

Prosciutto ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3)

I love cheese platters but I love meat platters even more, and after a lengthy consultation with our knowledgeable waiter, we opted for a duo of Prosciutto and Tartufo ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3), which was served with a slide of crusty white bread. The prosciutto came in freshly sliced ribbons, and though delicate, the soft and pliant slices of ham were nevertheless nutty and full-bodied in flavour. 

Tartufo ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3)

But our hearts were taken by the Tartufo – fatty slices of salami flavoured with black truffle, and finished with a drizzle of olive oil. Despite being so thinly sliced, each piece of salami was indulgently rich, augmented by hints of earthy truffle. 

Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16)

Making no concessions to our arteries, we followed the cured meats with a plate of Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16), one of the signature dishes of Ombra. And you know what? The blogger who said that these smelt like KFC were entirely correct; in fact, they even looked a bit like it too!

Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16)

Underneath the brittle coating, the lamb was unbelievably unctuous, dissolving off the bone at the lightest touch. The accompanying capsicum sauce was sweet and fruity, and although the lamb would've benefited from a more generous amount of seasoning, the cooking itself could not be faulted. Believe me, 4 ribs were more than enough for 2 people.

Slow Cooked Octopus, Potato, Salsa Verde ($18)

I had been eyeing the Slow Cooked Octopus, Potato, Salsa Verde ($18) all night, and you know what? It turned out to be one of the best dishes I’ve ordered for quite a while. The slow-cooked octopus had an amazing texture; instead of being overly chewy or saggy, it was satisfyingly meaty, soaking up the salsa verde, which danced with fresh parsley and good olive oil. Accompanied simply by crisp stalks of celery and slices of potato, this was an invigorating cold dish that’s perfect for summer. 

(Although, maybe avoid this dish if you’re squeamish about octopus. The tentacles were so huge that the little suction caps were falling off.)

Polpette, Tomato ($14) 

This was the deal Chris and I made: I get the octopus, and he’s allowed to have the Polpette, Tomato ($14) – a rustic serve of meatballs in a cast iron pan. As we had predicted, this was a classic dish made well, the meatballs coarse but moist, soaked in a rich tomato and vegetable stew. We gleefully soaked up the excess sauce with our remaining bread.

I may have been completely oblivious about Ombra until last week, but apparently I’m one of the last few people who are. By 7pm, not only was the entire upstairs and downstairs of the restaurant packed out, there wasn’t even any room left in the al fresco section. Ombra encompasses all of what Melbourne loves – a chic, stylish wine bar with beautifully made food and excellent wine (or so I’m told). It is a winner through and through (like Australia in the Asian cup!)

Rating: 15.5/20 – italian movida.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Self Preservation

70 Bourke Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://www.selfpreservation.com.au/

I admit that there’s something exciting about trying a less well-known restaurant. I very rarely visit a restaurant that doesn’t have copious amounts of good reviews backing it up – chalk that up to my very science-oriented education – so when I actually pick a place simply because I like the look of it, it’s a bit of a big deal. Not that Self Preservation is exactly hidden away, but it’s a lot more popular as a brunch pit-stop so as a result, I know that they do great coffee and nice eggs, but close to nothing about their dinner. And that’s almost as good as finding a restaurant for myself, right?

Being on the ‘Paris End’ of Bourke Street, Self Preservation fits the mould as a cosily antiquated European wine bar. Most people are here for a drink; the wine list is twice the size of the menu, though in all fairness the latter is rather compact and succinct. 

Spicy Pork and Beef Meatballs ($15) 

Spicy Pork and Beef Meatballs ($15) 

It always amazes me how wildly different the humble meatball can taste, from flavourless grizzle to succulent beauties. The Spicy Pork and Beef Meatballs ($15) of Self Preservation were rather good, the rich and spicy tomato sugo cooled with a dollop of yoghurt, and the meatballs pleasingly lean and meaty. The show was stolen though by the crunchy, smoky wood-fire grilled sourdough, with just a smidge of butter melted over it. 

Truffled Cauliflower Risotto with Seared Scallops ($23)

Like the meatballs, the Truffled Cauliflower Risotto with Seared Scallops ($23) was another staple dish done with care and elegance. The chewy grains of rice were interspersed with diced cauliflower that served to lighten the dish up considerably. The sauce was creamy but not cloying, and the chicken stock could be tasted clearly behind the polite amount of cheese and garlic. The scallops were unfortunately a bit overcooked, but still managed to remain smoky and sweet.

French Fries and Our Tomato Sauce ($8.5) 

We ordered a serve of French Fries and Our Tomato Sauce ($8.5) with no real expectations, with the intention of having them as a filler (that we didn’t end up needing), because the waitress recommended we order 4-5 dishes to share (preposterous!). They fulfilled their purpose, and I’m happy to leave them at that. 

I don’t have meals at cafes very often, as I find the food to be frequently over-priced and lack-lustre. However I actually thoroughly enjoyed having dinner at Self Preservation. Calling the food innovative and exciting would be a stretch of the imagination – it’s no more and no less than simple food done well, but that was enough.

Rating: 13.5/20 – i work close enough to come here for lunch!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

The Moat

Wheeler Centre, State Library Basement

176 Little Lonsdale Street

Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://www.themoat.com.au/Welcome.html

I don’t know if I’ve ever mentioned that I love books, but I seriously love books. The way I talk about them can only be eclipsed by the fervent manner I talk about food, and I smell my novels before I devour them. And that was why The Moat was such a no-brainer of a choice for birthday meal number two. 

And why is The Moat so perfect? It is actually located right under the State Library, and the vibe of knowledge carries through. The dining room is elegant and sophisticated, even without the poetry reading that was going on the night we visited for dinner. The crowd is predictably older and classier (the younger ones are sitting outside with a beer or two), but we were made to feel welcome with service that was warm, if not a bit slow. 

Cheese Fondue with Seasonal Vegetable Plate ($18)

Cheese Fondue with Seasonal Vegetable Plate ($18)

I’ve always wanted to try fondue, but have been a bit intimidated by the reportedly very alcoholic version offered at The Swiss Club. Thus, the Cheese Fondue with Seasonal Vegetable Plate ($18) seemed like the perfect way to dip my toes. The cheese was indeed a little alcoholic, but the sweetness of the alcohol mingled well with the salty Swiss cheese, resulting in a luscious dip for the garden of crisp autumn carrots and soft beetroot. 

Chipotle Spiced Chicken Ribs ($13)

Our second entree was a plate of Chipotle Spiced Chicken Ribs ($13). Though nothing special, the ribs were delicately flavoured with a faintly smoky chipotle rub, which went well with the drizzle of creamy aioli.

Soft Polenta with Wild Mushroom Ragout ($18)

To leave room for dessert, we decided to share a main and a side. The Soft Polenta with Wild Mushroom Ragout ($18) was the ideal comfort food for nights that are rapidly getting chillier. The slab of polenta was smooth and buttery, soaking up the pool of lightly earthy mushroom broth. The tumble of assorted mushrooms varied in texture and flavour, and was simultaneously robust and elegant when paired with the gossamer of herb salad. 

Roasted Kipfler Potatoes ($8.5)

And of course, potatoes. These Roasted Kipfler Potatoes ($8.5) were unlike any we’ve had before, favouring a chewy crispiness over the usually preferred fluffiness. And whilst the difference in texture made the potatoes less hearty, they were generously flavoured with rosemary and whole cloves of garlic, imparting their pungent fragrance to the crunchy slices. 

Crema Catalana ($14)

Crema Catalana ($14)

It is well known by now that I can never turn down a crème brulee, especially not my favourite variety, the Crema Catalana ($14). Though a smidge grainy, I couldn’t fault either the eggy creaminess or the faint hint of citrus, and the light toffee shell was caramelised to perfection. The accompanying fingers of airy house-made biscotti dissolved on the tongue.

I’ll be up front and say that the portions at The Moat are quite small, and if it weren’t for my appetite being somewhat AWOL, we probably would’ve needed another medium-sized dish to be full. As it stands though, The Moat is a fantastic place for a quiet dinner; the food is seasonal and simple, but beautifully made, and the setting undeniably charming. Because of the price tag associated, I probably wouldn’t come back in a rush, but I know that when I do, I’ll be guaranteed a wonderful evening.

Rating: 15/20 – a very very unbirthday!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.