Cumulus Up

45 Flinders Lane 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://cumulusinc.com.au/up/

If there’s one man I can admit to loving just as much as Frank Camorra, it would be Andrew McConnell (sorry Chris). Barring Golden Fields, which was just ok, there has been no Andrew McConnell experience that hasn’t left me foaming at the mouth with delight. I had promised to treat myself to dinner at Cumulus Up once I finally found a job, so here we are! 

If you haven’t caught on by now, Cumulus Up is the little sibling to the Modern Australian magnate, Cumulus Inc. And yes, it is up from Cumulus Inc. However, whereas Cumulus Inc. is airy and whitewashed, Cumulus Up is a European-styled wine bar buzzing with sophistication. The ambience is dark and sensuous, the dining room decorated with ample amounts of exposed brick and rough-hewn wood, topped off with a glimmering bar. 

Bread and Butter

Though the menu was only one page long, it was more than made up for by the thick, leather-bound wine list. But as usual, we’re here for the food, and before long we had ordered, and started on our plate of Bread and Butter in the interim. The sourdough was thickly sliced, with a chewy crust and a moist, doughy centre. It was the butter however that really stood out with its creamy texture and organic, milky taste. 

Grilled King Prawn, Crème Fraiche & Lemon ($9ea) 

When I smelt the smoky aroma of the Grilled King Prawn, Crème Fraiche & Lemon ($9ea) at the next table, I knew I had to have it. The morsels of prawn inside the charred shell were sweet and succulent, the vividly briny flavours brought out by the creamy sauce and a squeeze of lemon. Though pricy (and fiddly!), it was worth every cent. 

Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) 

The Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) is the signature dish at Cumulus Up, and there was nary a table without it. After spreading the rosette of foie gras into the waffle pockets and taking that first bite, the reason for its popularity becomes obvious.

Duck Waffle, Foie Gras, Prune ($9ea) 

Biting through the crisp exterior of the waffle, we quickly discovered shreds of duck meat folded into the airy batter. Spread thickly with the ethereal foie gras and summery prune jam, I am happy to report that this is indeed the food of gods. 

Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) 

If there’s one thing Andrew McConnell taught me, it’s that sashimi does not need to be confined to Japanese cuisine. Especially if the result is as magnificent as one I had at Cutler and Co. So it was unsurprising that the Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) was a breathtaking work of art. The plump slices of sashimi peeked through the gauzy roasted kelp, highlighted with daubs of macerated tomato and pale green dill oil. 

Raw Kingfish, Tomato, Oyster Mayonnaise & Laver ($18) 

Despite the sheer intensity of the flavours, they matched the kingfish in daintiness. The thickly cut fish was adorned with the sweet citrus of apples and tomatoes, whilst the thick oyster mayo brought in another element from the ocean. It was topped off with the unexpected warmth from the brittle shards of kelp, forming a flavour palette that’s so vibrant yet harmonious that you really have to taste it to believe it. 

Peppered Butcher’s Steak, Hand-Cut Chips ($32) 

Coming back down to earth for the mains, we ordered the much simpler Peppered Butcher’s Steak, Hand-Cut Chips ($32) to share. Cut into 4 thick slices, each piece was deliciously pink with a salt-rubbed exterior, and then served with the most amazing pepper sauce. 

Hand-Cut Chips

The hand-cut chips were equally as good; rustic and fluffy, with plenty of little crispy bits.

Green Bean, Chopped Egg & Tarragon Vinaigrette ($12)

The obligatory greenery came in the form of Green Bean, Chopped Egg & Tarragon Vinaigrette ($12). The lush, crisp beans were flavoured with the contrasting creaminess of soft boiled eggs, and the sharp dressing. The result was a light yet balanced side dish that I had no trouble polishing up, even after all the steak was gone.

It’s hard to write a conclusion when the restaurant is so unequivocally amazing; I suppose the service could be improved, as I felt the restaurant was a little short-staffed and the waiters very business-like. But whatever, average service really doesn’t bother me, not when the food is so stupendously good.

Rating: 16.5/20 – in the clouds.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Ms Collins

425 Collins Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.mscollins.com.au/

What’s this? Sweet and Sour Fork is reviewing clubs now? Yes, and no. Yes Ms Collins is a club, but no that is not all she is. Mind you, the only thing that would be able to get me to a club (besides insistent friends) would be good food. Though I initially shirked at the prospect of eating in a place with the music going DOOF DOOF DOOF, the big names behind the menu changed my mind almost instantaneously.

So who did Ms Collins manage to rustle up for her dinner party? Paul Wilson from the city of Sydney, Riccardo Momesso of Valentino, Daniel Wilson of Huxtable (and Huxtaburger!), and – get this – Jacques Reymond himself. Sure, it may feel weird eating food by a three-hatted chef in a heritage building decorated with graffiti and lit in pink, but where else are you going to get to eat food by Jacques Reymond?

 Distant Cousins Sauvignon Blanc 2014

We came to Ms Collins especially to partake in their Friday Bao Down promo. For just $20 you can find yourself indulging in 3 baos (flavours change weekly) and a glass of wine/beer/champagne. And seeing as I won’t need to drive for another few hours, I indulged in a glass of Distant Cousins Sauvignon Blanc 2014, which was crisp and very fruity – lots of fun to drink.

Wagyu Beef and Pickled Red Cabbage Bao

The bao we were treated to that week was stuffed with Wagyu Beef and Pickled Red Cabbage. Let me make a confession here: despite the big names behind the restaurant/club/bar, I was a bit apprehensive about the food. I mean, how many famous chefs eventually sell out after retiring? Anyway, disregard all my hang-ups, because these bao were sensational. The wagyu was slow-cooked in its juices until it was sweet and unctuous, whilst the acidic ribbons of red cabbage gave the beef its vivacity. It was all wrapped up in a snowy, fluffy bun and left us licking our fingers.

Empanadas de Picadillo with Mission Fig Mole ($12, 3pcs)

The success with the bao made me excited to try something else, but I apparently still haven’t learnt my lesson – the Empanadas de Picadillo with Mission Fig Mole ($12, 3pcs) just made me think of greasy pastry filled with nasty mince. 

Empanadas de Picadillo with Mission Fig Mole ($12, 3pcs)

Empanadas de Picadillo with Mission Fig Mole ($12, 3pcs)

I was of course once again spectacularly wrong. The buttery pastry absolutely dissolved in the mouth, revealing a chunky, aromatic centre of spiced lamb. But wait, there’s more! The empanadas were sweetened with a streak of fig mole, and hiding behind the fruit was the darker smokiness of chilli and chocolate. Topping it all off were crunchy peptia seeds, and caramelised figs. I don’t even need to reminisce to decide that these were the best empanadas I have ever tasted. 

Banana and Ron Zacapa Parfait ($12)

Despite only being nibbles, the bao and empanadas were actually quite filling, most likely due to their richness. However we were coerced picking a dessert, and it was possibly the hardest decision I had to make that day (I was still unemployed at the time but NOT ANYMORE!). 

Banana and Ron Zacapa Parfait ($12)

In the end it was the Banana and Ron Zacapa Parfait ($12) that I chose, seduced by the combination of rum, hazelnut brittle, and salted caramel.  Though not as astonishing as the empanadas, this were nevertheless delicious. The boozy log of banana ice cream was crunchy and moreish once rolled in the crunchy hazelnut brittle, whilst the combination of bitter salted caramel and bananas torched to toffee sweetness was as good as a bonus dessert.

Though we stayed in the main area, I was told that Ms Collins also has private function rooms in all shapes and sizes. Another thing I learnt was that Kiet, the owner of Ms Collins, also owns Operator25 and Alumbra – two big names in brunch and nightlife, so you know that Ms Collins comes from prime pedigree. No matter what sort of night out on the town you’re looking for, Ms Collins has you covered.

Rating: 14/20 – be my mrs collins?

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Ms Collins. 

Maedaya

398-400 Bridge Rd 

Richmond, VIC 3121

As the first izakaya I’ve ever been to, Maedaya will always hold a special place in my heart and stomach. And though I’m currently unemployed, Chris is a lovely person, and still takes me out for lovely dinners. What a sweetheart.

As a Melbourne favourite, not much has changed about this Japanese drinking hole. Sure, they’ve bought out the space next door and filled it with cosy booths, and sure, the enormous A2 menu has been transcribed over to an iPad ordering system. But the basics remain the same – a huge variety of Japanese drinking food accompanied by cheap cocktails and Asian liquors. 

Maedaya Tsukune Set ($11)

Though now a feature of at least one other izakaya around town, the grill is still one of Maedaya’s drawcards. The sizzling and flames are as good as a show, and we ordered the Maedaya Tsukune Set ($11) right off the hot coals. The five skewers of minced chicken balls, dipped in a sweet soy marinade, were savoury and flavoursome, and garnished with a variety of toppings. The spicy mayo was the unanimous favourite, though we were also fond of the ground black pepper. The rest (garlic, chilli, wasabi mayo) were less memorable, but were just as tasty and perfect with a drink.

Inari Kushi ($2.8)

And a lone Inari Kushi ($2.8). The sheets of tofu were rolled up and basted with soy and flakes of chilli, its vegetarian sweetness a contrast to the meaty chicken skewers. 

Takoyaki ($5.5, 6pcs)

When I went to Japan, I ate Takoyaki ($5.5, 6pcs) whenever I could get them, even if I’d just had a meal. And whilst I’ve yet to find some in Australia that are just as good, these certainly hit the spot. Crisp on the outside with a gooey, creamy centre and chewy octopus pieces, these are definitely some of the better takoyaki I’ve had outside of Japan. 

Yaki Buta ($8.5)

We soon found that ordering at Maedaya is a bit of an ordeal. There are so many dishes but so little stomach! The Yaki Buta ($8.5) however was a good decision, the thin slices of grilled pork belly falling apart even as we picked them up, before melting completely in the mouth with a burst of gingery soy and caramelised fatty edges. 

Salt and Pepper Squid Salad ($8.5, regular)

The Salt and Pepper Squid Salad ($8.5, regular) was a slightly healthier option after our last few dishes. Though nothing special, the quality of this dish was a treat. Doused in sweet chilli sauce, the pieces of calamari were fresh and springy, and the bed of garden salad was crunchy and sprightly, doused in a moreish sesame dressing. 

Agedashi Tofu ($6)

I am proud to say that I’ve more or less made a full convert of Chris when it comes to tofu, and his favourite rendition would be Agedashi Tofu ($6). The clean broth of this version lacked the strong umami that I like, but the tofu itself was silken and wobbly in its batter, and generally rather lovely. 

Yakibuta Rice ($5)

Having eyed it a couple times throughout our meal, we succumbed and got a plate of Yakibuta Rice ($5) and I have to say, it leaves fried rice for dead. The mound of rice was sticky and rich, having been infused with the cooking juices of the pork belly served on top. The slivers of ginger added lightness; this was essentially the perfect one-bowl meal. 

Ika Sansai ($3)

And I insisted on some Ika Sansai ($3) to go with the rice, even though we really didn’t need it. Still, what’s not to like about chewy pieces of octopus and veggies marinated in a sweet chilli paste?

We had over-ordered, leaving ourselves with no room for Maedaya’s signature cheesecake. The bottom line when it comes to Maedaya is simple yet tasty drinking food, served at knockdown prices – our meal only came to $50! Surely that’s more than enough reason as to why the wait time is an hour at 7pm on a Sunday night.

Rating: 14.5/20 – because it’s worth it.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Rice Paper Scissors

19 Liverpool Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.ricepaperscissors.com.au/

Sometimes I forget about why I blog. It’s unfortunate that when I get more involved with a hobby (such as food blogging!), it will slowly morph over time from hobby to commitment, and commitment to chore. There are days where blogging feels like a dead weight to be lugged around on top of my work and study obligations. And in times like this, it’s good to pause and to remember what led me to food blogging in the first place – a love of food and new experiences.  

After forcing myself to take a short break, I’m back at Rice Paper Scissors feeling if not like a new person, then at least somewhat refreshed and more excited about blogging. Though the smell of fresh paint has long since dissipated, Rice Paper Scissors has only been open for a year or so, but managed to whip itself up a fanatical following in that time. Our plans to visit on a Friday after work were thwarted by a 1+ hour wait, despite arriving just 10 minutes after opening. Oh how I miss not working 8-5!

Rice Paper Scissors is my sort of bar, where the food is just as revered as the alcohol. The menu is short and succinct, consisting of two dozen or so (that’s including the daily specials) street-food-styled dishes taken from South-East Asia. Most couples opt for the Share the Love option – any 5 dishes for $55, to be split between two people. Though not necessarily cheaper than ordering the dishes individually, as they are all somewhere around the $10 mark, it’s a relief to know exactly how much food to order, with the added bonus of a predictable bill at the end. The menu suggested that we ‘use our hands’, and the suggestion is so sincere that we were given a small finger bowl along with our cutlery. Other street-styled restaurants, taken note!

Twice Cooked Pork Belly with Chilli Caramel Sauce ($11)

Always hard to resist is the Twice Cooked Pork Belly with Chilli Caramel Sauce ($11). Very used to Melbourne’s serving sizes, I found the four bricks of golden pork belly to be surprisingly generous, a theme that carried through the rest of our meal. Ribboned with fat and crackling, the pork belly showed its true potential when dipped into the sticky chilli jam, which was a harmonious yet spirited blend of sweet and tangy, and just enough chilli to tingle. 

BBQ Lamb Ribs ($11)

The BBQ Lamb Ribs ($11) were marinated in a mixture of soy and Mekong whisky, and melted sweetly and succulently off the bone, helped by a generous amount of fat. Though the marinade could’ve capitalised from more depth of flavour, the lemongrass and coriander garnishing the ribs provided a prime opportunity to liven up the lamb. 

Thai Ceviche ($12)

I really liked the way the Thai Ceviche ($12) was served in a small metal tin. It reminded me a little of the canned fish with black beans I used to eat when I was younger (it’s also the first image that pops up if you google ‘Chinese canned fish’)

Thai Ceviche ($12)

But this was a far cry from greasy, preserved fillets of dace. Bright and spicy, the diced kingfish was mixed with a mouth-watering blend of chilli, fresh herbs, red onions, and a squeeze of lemon. The texture of the crackers varied a bit, and some were rather stale and tough, but I was quite happy eating the ceviche straight from the spoon. 

Thai Fried Chicken ($11)

I had started to regret ordering so many rich dishes by this point, but there was no way I could’ve gone past the Thai Fried Chicken ($11). Once again, bonus points for presentation that reminded me nostalgically of paper boxes of chicken nuggets. 

Thai Fried Chicken ($11)

Despite being golden and crunchy, the batter was actually quite wet. I suspect this was due to the fact that the batter was actually fairly minimal; instead, the chefs decided to let the subtle flavours of ginger, chilli, and coriander root soak into the chicken itself. The meat was tender and incredibly moist, and I almost burnt myself trying to eat these in my eagerness. 

Son-In-Law Eggs ($9)

Son-In-Law Eggs ($9)

Finishing up our mini-banquet were the Son-In-Law Eggs ($9). These were a little odd; instead of being soft boiled then deep fried, the eggs were fried sunny side up, before being blanketed with herbs and chilli. I’ll admit, it was nice not having to worry about egg yolk getting everywhere, but I felt that the sauce could’ve used more backbone to it – too much caramel, and not enough chilli.

Only minor things stopped Rice Paper Scissors from becoming my new favourite hangout. Though the service was friendly, it suffered from inconsistency. Our tiny space along the bar became rapidly cluttered when we were served 4 dishes within 5 minutes, but when we requested that they slowed the food down, we didn’t end up getting our final dish until we asked, despite our table having been cleared. Petty I know, but it’s just frustrating watching all the food go cold in front of our eyes. Still, Rice Paper Scissors is pretty great, and is the answer for everyone who can’t be bothered queuing up outside Chin Chin for half their evening.

Rating: 15.5/20 – rice beats scissors.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Gyoza Douraku

147 Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000

http://www.gyozadouraku.com.au/

Hey all, it’s Chris here again, taking the reins for a blog post while Ming prepares for registration exams and is generally incredibly busy. Enjoy!

I’ve always known Melbourne’s CBD is wonderfully packed with great places to eat, but I don’t think I’ve ever appreciated this fact more than the night Ming and I tried Gyoza Douraku – our original plan was to go to Gangnam Pocha, only to find that they had closed down. Not fazed for even a second, Ming instead whisked us a mere 2 doors down the street to Gyoza Douraku.

Gyoza Douraku is a quaint little Japanese restaurant along Bourke St. You’d be hard-pressed to fit a large group of people through the cramped entrance, but thankfully the space opens up toward the back, showing off a cosy wooden interior.

Here you’ll find a tapas-style menu, with a wide variety of smaller dishes all available for the price of $6.50. Like any good tapas restaurant, they also have an extensive drinks list – including wines, sakes, $14 shochu cocktails and all sorts of other Japanese beverages

Tori no Karaage ($6.5)

We ordered a varied selection of their small tapas-style dishes, starting with their Tori No Karaage ($6.5). I’m not sure what makes this different from their popcorn chicken, but I couldn’t care less upon biting into one of these hot and crispy morsels. The juicy chicken was offset with a satisfying crunch from the batter, as well as the creamy mayo alongside it.

Salmon Sashimi ($6.5, 4pcs)

Contrasting with the rich fried chicken, the Salmon Sashimi ($6.5, 4pcs) that arrived next had an impressively fresh taste to it. These slices of salmon had a great firm texture to bite which gave to a softer, richer meat on the tongue.

Agedashi Tofu ($6.5)

Next up was our Agedashi Tofu ($6.5), which was plump and flavoursome in its sweet broth. Rather than some tofus which are a bit dry (and bland) or over-sauced (and soggy), this hit the sweet spot between the two.

Having taken a little longer to cook, our gyoza arrived as we were reaching the tail end of our other dishes. Provided alongside your gyoza is a DIY sauce kit, complete with Japanese Grain Vinegar, Soy Sauce, Chili Oil, Sesame Oil, Roasted Sesame Seeds, and Fresh Crushed Garlic. Unless you prefer your dumplings plain like me, chances are you’ll find something to suit you here. (It’d also be nice if the kit didn’t take up so much table space, but I doubt much can be done about that)

Pan-Fried Pork and Garlic Gyoza ($3.5, 6pcs)

The first gyoza we tried were the Pan-Fried Pork and Garlic Gyoza ($3.5, 6pcs). These tasted less of pork and more strongly of garlic than I expected, but they were nice and juicy whilst still holding together remarkably well.

Steamed Chef's Special ($6.5, 6pcs)

We also tried the steamed Chef’s Special Gyoza ($6.5, 6pcs), which were a much more balanced affair. The pork, prawn and vegetable blended in together until they were almost indistinguishable, and were rather mild when compared to the pork and garlic gyoza we had just had. However, that didn’t keep the familiar taste from being enjoyable.

Gyoza Douraku is a gem - their food set nary a foot wrong for us, and for a tapas-style menu the portions are nicely sized and very reasonably priced. We may not have tried the drinks, but we were certainly very tempted by the colourful concoctions being delivered to nearby tables. If that alongside a range of tasty $6.50 dishes appeals to you, be sure to check it out.

Rating: 13.5/20

This rating reflects my (Chris’) personal experience at the time of visit.