Tipo 00

361 Little Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.tipo00.com.au/

For the last couple of weeks, I’ve been treated to (and tortured by) a series of photos on Facebook of one of my friends, who is currently travelling around Italy. Whilst I may not be able to join in on the blue skies, clear waters, and beautiful historic sites, I can at least appease my craving with a good bowl of pasta.

My usual go-to place for authentic but classy pasta (as opposed to an enormous feed by nonna) is Grossi Cellar Bar, but I’ve been hearing increasingly about the new it place for Italian in the CBD – Tipo 00. After having worked at Vue de Monde for 4 years, as well as stints at other Melbourne fine-dining destinations, chef Andreas Papadakis has turned his talented hands to creating this cosy but refined little pasta bar. Since its opening late last year, Tipo 00 has quickly gained almost universal acclaim from both critics and diners. 

The 43-seater restaurant was predictably booked out for a Friday night, but we were confident of our chances of scoring some bar-seating if we showed up at about a quarter to six. For once, not even our habit of early dinners could save us, as the wait quoted was half an hour to 45 minutes (and get this: by 6:30, the wait-time was over an hour and a half). Luckily the restaurant gave us a call back within about 15 minutes, and though we were seated right by the door which let in draughts of cold air whenever anyone went in or out (and that’s extremely often), we were seated. 

Foccacia with Ricotta

The menu at Tipo 00 has been pared back, leaving nothing but a handful of entrees and pastas, and a few mains for the gluten-intolerant. Still, between the delectable specials and the debate of entree-vs-dessert, ordering was not as easy as you would expect. Once we had ordered however, we were rewarded with a plate of Foccacia with Ricotta. The bread was warm and crisp, seasoned with a moreish combination of sea salt and herbed oil. On the side was a cool dollop of ricotta, spreading smoothly and easily over the bread.

It was also at this point that some bar seating freed up, and the angelic staff asked if we would like to be moved – an incredibly considerate suggestion that made our dinner much less cold, and much more enjoyable. 

Spaghetti Affumicati ($24)

Though I’m happy to give anything a go, I will always order the spaghetti with clams if I see it on a menu. Tipo 00 served up a delicious plate of Spaghetti Affumicati ($24), consisting of spaghetti drenched in a gently briny broth with just a hint of ripe, smoky tomatoes and coarsely chopped parsley. Best of all were the thick, wheaty strands of pasta that satisfy the carb craving, whilst still being perfectly al dente. It was just as good, if not better than the spaghetti vongole at Grossi Cellar Bar. 

Gnocchi di Patate ($26) 

I never get food envy over Chris’ order, but there’s a first for everything, and the Gnocchi di Patate ($26) was deserving of my envy indeed. The gnocchi were draped with sticky braised duck and porcini mushrooms, the gravy rich and buttery, having extracted every last morsel of flavour in the process of slow-cooking. The gnocchi themselves were velvety pillows that melted in the mouth, its texture more like mashed potato than pasta, and were absolutely perfect for soaking up the sauce. Perfection was achieved with a generous grating of sharp pecorino cheese that brought the earthy, hearty flavours to life.   

Gnocchi di Patate ($26) 

Though the serve initially seemed small, it was indulgently rich, and there was almost as much duck as there was pasta. We ended up being entirely satisfied with the portion size. The waiter even offered us more bread to soak up the sauce, thus cementing their place in my heart. 

Pannacotta ($14)

After finishing our pasta, we were satisfied, but with plenty of room left for the Pannacotta ($14). The flawless disc of cream and sugar was thick and silky, and flecked through with aromatic vanilla bean. That would’ve been excellent just on its own, but it was complemented by a bouquet of honeyed berries that tasted of the peak of summer, and streaks of intensely fruity raspberry compote. My only regret is not having room to try their tipomisu.

Even though I’ve had plenty of pasta in my time, I find myself continuously astounded by just how delicious simple and well-cooked Italian food can be, and in my opinion, Tipo 00 makes what is arguably the best pasta in Melbourne. I have to say that pricing is a little painful, but instead of regret, all I felt as I walked out was smugness, courtesy of all the good pasta lining my tummy.

Rating: 16/20 – tipo of the pile.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Maria's Trattoria

124 Peel St 

Melbourne, VIC 3051
http://www.mariastrattoria.com/

As much as I hate paying for food that I can make myself, sometimes I want home-styled cooking and to be lazy. But whilst my end of town is good for dumplings and stir-fries, I’m not as fortunate when I’m craving pasta or curry. Those who live near Maria’s Trattoria however, are. 

Opened literally 30 years ago, Maria’s Trattoria is very much the quintessential family-run eatery. Its aged facade is very easy to overlook, but what caught my eye was the collage of faded Cheap Eats Awards pasted on the window. I doubt the restaurant itself has changed since the day it opened, and over the years it has become antiquated and tacky, but in a homely, well-loved way. 

What really makes Maria’s Trattoria feel homely though are the staff, who are the cutest buttons you’ll ever find. See, there’s one right there, happily waving a piece of bread she’s buttering. Maria herself was also in da house, wearing a flowery apron and cooking up a storm. 

Tortellini alla Romana ($16.9, main)

Chris ignored my warnings of the portion sizes, and ordered a Tortellini alla Romana ($16.9, main), ‘just to see how big it was’. The plate it was served on was definitely closer to a platter in size, and it was piled high with plump pockets of pasta, stuffed with nuggets of veal. It was generously topped with mushrooms and bacon, and finished with a delectably tangy sauce of tomato and cream. 

Spaghetti Pescatore ($16.9, entree)

Meanwhile, my Spaghetti Pescatore ($16.9, entree) was more generous in size than the mains you’ll find at most restaurants. The classic Napoli sauce was mild but hearty in flavour, and though the spaghetti was just a touch past al dente, it was nowhere near problematic. 

Spaghetti Pescatore ($16.9, entree)

What impressed me the most however was the seafood. It was generously doled up, consisting of everything from scallops to calamari to clams. The freshness could not be faulted either, though it is unsurprising, given that they source all their produce from Queen Victoria Market across the road. Finished with a healthy Italian-sized glug of olive oil, this is a plate of pasta that’s just as good in front of the TV as it is with a glass of wine. 

Though we definitely, definitely didn’t need it, we were still given a basket of slightly-stale-but-perfectly-sufficient bread. And simply because it was there, I ended up eating two slices, soaked in the yummy tortellini sauce. 

If we’re talking about it purely from a taste perspective, there is nothing groundbreaking about Maria’s Trattoria. What (I believe) keeps everyone coming back is the genuine sense of warmth and hospitality you get the moment you step in the door. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that the food is tasty, the portions huge, and the prices reasonable.

Rating: 14/20 – mama maria!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Ombra

76 Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.ombrabar.com.au/

As sad as I am to admit it, Friday night dates have sort of lost their shine ever since I’ve been out of a job. A nice meal out may still be enjoyable, but it just feels like I’ve done absolutely nothing to earn them. But am I going to stop having Friday night dates? NOPE.

Ombra opened quietly (or maybe I just wasn’t paying attention; I probably wasn’t paying attention) three years ago at the top end of Bourke Street, right next to the Grossi empire. That would normally be a terribly foolish move for any Italian restaurant trying to make it big, but not in this case, as Ombra is also a Guy Grossi venture. 

As you’d expect of the famous Italian chef, Ombra is an Italian wine bar at heart. There is a large cellar hidden under the stairs, and plenty of meats being cured in-house. The downstairs section is pretty but it’s got nothing on the enchanting upstairs section – a provincial Italian dining room, with a balcony that opens up to the leafy Paris-end of Bourke street. 

Prosciutto ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3)

I love cheese platters but I love meat platters even more, and after a lengthy consultation with our knowledgeable waiter, we opted for a duo of Prosciutto and Tartufo ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3), which was served with a slide of crusty white bread. The prosciutto came in freshly sliced ribbons, and though delicate, the soft and pliant slices of ham were nevertheless nutty and full-bodied in flavour. 

Tartufo ($9 for 1, $12 for 2, $18 for 3)

But our hearts were taken by the Tartufo – fatty slices of salami flavoured with black truffle, and finished with a drizzle of olive oil. Despite being so thinly sliced, each piece of salami was indulgently rich, augmented by hints of earthy truffle. 

Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16)

Making no concessions to our arteries, we followed the cured meats with a plate of Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16), one of the signature dishes of Ombra. And you know what? The blogger who said that these smelt like KFC were entirely correct; in fact, they even looked a bit like it too!

Crisp Lamb Ribs, Salsa di Peperoni ($16)

Underneath the brittle coating, the lamb was unbelievably unctuous, dissolving off the bone at the lightest touch. The accompanying capsicum sauce was sweet and fruity, and although the lamb would've benefited from a more generous amount of seasoning, the cooking itself could not be faulted. Believe me, 4 ribs were more than enough for 2 people.

Slow Cooked Octopus, Potato, Salsa Verde ($18)

I had been eyeing the Slow Cooked Octopus, Potato, Salsa Verde ($18) all night, and you know what? It turned out to be one of the best dishes I’ve ordered for quite a while. The slow-cooked octopus had an amazing texture; instead of being overly chewy or saggy, it was satisfyingly meaty, soaking up the salsa verde, which danced with fresh parsley and good olive oil. Accompanied simply by crisp stalks of celery and slices of potato, this was an invigorating cold dish that’s perfect for summer. 

(Although, maybe avoid this dish if you’re squeamish about octopus. The tentacles were so huge that the little suction caps were falling off.)

Polpette, Tomato ($14) 

This was the deal Chris and I made: I get the octopus, and he’s allowed to have the Polpette, Tomato ($14) – a rustic serve of meatballs in a cast iron pan. As we had predicted, this was a classic dish made well, the meatballs coarse but moist, soaked in a rich tomato and vegetable stew. We gleefully soaked up the excess sauce with our remaining bread.

I may have been completely oblivious about Ombra until last week, but apparently I’m one of the last few people who are. By 7pm, not only was the entire upstairs and downstairs of the restaurant packed out, there wasn’t even any room left in the al fresco section. Ombra encompasses all of what Melbourne loves – a chic, stylish wine bar with beautifully made food and excellent wine (or so I’m told). It is a winner through and through (like Australia in the Asian cup!)

Rating: 15.5/20 – italian movida.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Tutto Bene

Shop M28 Southgate Plaza 

Southbank, VIC 3006

http://www.tuttobene.com.au/

Once I finally succumbed to using a nasal spray on top of my daily antihistamine, summer took a decided turn for the better. Pollen? What pollen? And that’s just as well, because how else am I to enjoy the cool breeze off the Yarra from the balcony of Tutto Bene?

Up until this point, Tutto Bene has always been known to me as the Italian place with the clown and the good gelato, because whenever I took a gander at the menu outside the door, it always looked way too expensive to bother with. Luckily The Age Good Food Month caters to the cheapos budget-savvy, and a large group of restaurants in the Southgate precinct are currently offering up a combination of signature dish and a drink for a fixed price of $15-$35, depending on where you go. 

We were served Bread with EVOO to start, and a tiny dish of Olives. It’s no surprise that the bread and olive oil at a good-quality Italian restaurant is top notch; the sourdough was chewy with a delightfully crispy crust, and the olive oil was fruity without being pungent. 

2013 Te Mata Chardonnay ($13, glass)

The drink being offered as part of Tutto Bene’s $35 Set Menu is a 2013 Te Mata Chardonnay ($13, glass). Served chilled, this straw-coloured wine was tangy and invigorating, smelling faintly nutty and tasting strongly of citrus. It was delightfully refreshing on a hot day such as this one.  And the handsome jaw line I’m sharing a drink with? That’s Ethan. 

Calamari Fritti ($16.5)

Before our mains, we had a starter of Calamari Fritti ($16.5) to share. The calamari was lightly battered, enough to give it flavour, but more importantly, just enough for the calamari to retain its melt-in-mouth succulence and a hint of bite. The salad mix was contrastingly crisp and bitter, the sharpness of rocket and radicchio tempered with the occasional sweet pop of peas. Stunningly presented, this was a fantastic dish that left us raving. 

Risotteria Granchio ($29.5)

Tutto Bene’s signature dish was the Risotteria Granchio ($29.5), a simple yet elegant risotto in a sauce of of tomato, chilli, and spanner crab. Though delicate, it was nevertheless full in flavour, the briny aroma of the crab showing through the rich tomato sauce. The rice is, of course, the perfect chewy al dente. 

Many places on Southbank get by simply from the amazing ambience along the Yarra, and whilst there certainly was an element of that with Tutto Bene, the food is also, from personal experience, a cut above everything else. Whilst there is no way you would ever catch me paying $30 for a tasty but admittedly fairly average risotto, I am keen to see if anything else delights like the calamari. And failing that, there’s always the gelato.

Rating: 13.5/20 – ambient.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Tutto Bene. 

Gradi Crown Casino

Shop 25, 8 Whiteman Street,

Southbank 3006

http://www.400gradi.com.au/

Everyone knows 400 Gradi. It skyrocketed to fame overnight by snatching the award of Best Pizza in the World from 600 other competitors, and in Italy no less. And next thing I know, they’ve opened up a huge 200-seater branch in Crown, with another to come in Essendon. Choosing not to challenge the queues at the original location, we made for the crown branch instead. 

Gradi Crown is a pizzeria, with a pair of bronzed wood-fire ovens to show for it. But instead of the warm intimacy of nonna’s kitchen, this is set up like fine dining, complete with the unabashed glamour of crown. The effect was somewhat ruined by the fact that service was scattered and disjointed, though in all fairness they had only been open for less than a week at this point, and I’ve no doubt that this is a problem that will be fixed with time.

Anyway. Despite having arrived just past 6 on Wednesday, the only 2 seater available was in the pizzeria section of the restaurant, under the proviso that we’ll be out within the hour. We were seated swiftly, wine lists were handed out, and pizzas were promised to be in our mouths within 15 minutes of ordering (my words not theirs). 

Given the large deli section we walked past on our way in, we couldn’t resist starting our meal off with a smorgasbord of cheeses and meats. I like the option of choosing your serving size, giving us the opportunity to try a wider variety of smoked, cured, and aged goods, all plated up on a brittle lavosh cracker drizzled in rosemary oil. 

Bufaletto (Taleggio) ($8.5, 25g)

The Bufaletto (Taleggio) ($8.5, 25g) was an easy choice for me, being extremely fond of soft white cheeses. It was creamy and velvety, with the distinctly fruity taste characteristic of taleggio cheese, and a hint of ripe mustiness at the end.

Asiago ($5, 25g)

The Asiago ($5, 25g) was cut from a different block of cheese entirely – literally and metaphorically. Sweet and waxy, but surprisingly mild, it was a lot mellower than its texture would suggest.

Proscuitto Cotto d'Abruzzo ($5, 25g)

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The Proscuitto Cotto d’Abruzzo ($5, 25g) was less than impressive. Not only did it look like ham, but it didn’t taste much different either, except perhaps with longer fibres. For those who were expecting fat-streaked Italian prosciutto, don’t be fooled! 

NdujaCalabra ($4.5, 25g)

The NdujaCalabra ($4.5, 25g) was a foray into unfamiliar culinary territory. During my research I had confirmed that it was a sausage, but I failed to realise that it was in fact a spreadable sausage. Thus, we found ourselves served with pieces of crusty bread, smeared with a fiery-looking paste. And it was indeed spicy as the waiter had warned, tasting of smoke, pork fat, and chilli peppers.

Margherita Verace ($21)

But really, we were here for the best pizza in the world, and first impressions were good indeed. The Margherita Verace ($21) was hands-down the most delicious pizza I’ve ever been lucky enough to eat, the creamy pockets of buffalo mozzarella  melting into the tomato sugo, sun-ripened to equal measures of sweetness of acidity. 

Margherita Verace ($21)

And the base was pure magic. Despite being just millimetres thick and having sat around waiting for me to take photos, the base still managed to be both crisp yet pliant. The experience culminated at the burnished, puffy crust, and one bite took me straight through the crisp exterior to the fluffy, chewy middle, flavoured with just a dash of salt. It was sheer perfection.

Verdure Grigliate ($13)

It’s a shame I couldn’t say the same about the Verdure Grigliate ($13), aka roast vegetables. Though the freshness of the fennel and baby carrots weren’t to be faulted, their sweetness brought out by a scattering of sea salt, the serving size was beyond absurd. It should be glad that the pizza was around to cover its buttocks.

My meal actually brought to mind one I had some time back at DOC. But whereas at DOC I hated the pizza and adored the sides, it was the opposite case with Gradi. The deli selection was average, the roast vegetables were atrocious, but the pizza shone brightly enough to cast its glow over the entire meal. I will definitely come back, especially given how convenient the location is, but you’ll never see me with anything that isn’t pizza, that’s for sure.

Rating: 12/20 – overall.

Rating: 15.5/20 – pizza only.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.