Circa the Prince - Hop Harvest Degustation

2 Acland St 
St Kilda, VIC 3182

http://www.circa.com.au/

So I while back, I found a very interesting email sitting in my inbox, inviting me to a Hop Harvest Degustation. It didn’t take a genius to work out that this was a combination of beer tasting and fine dining at Circa the Prince, and despite not being much of a beer fan, I was eager to learn more about the golden brew, and any food is good food in my books. I am SO there. 

Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED

Spanner Crab Cracker with Avocado and Crayfish Emulsion/Duck Liver Parfait with Brioche and Pepper Gel 

There was no messing around with these guys; the moment we stepped into the intimate dining room festooned with bushels of flowers and plants, we were handed a tall, frothy goblet of James Squire 150 Lashes Pale Ale. Well, everyone else was, but I was more than a little under the weather that day, and opted instead for a glass of water. I was told afterwards that it was light and malty – very easy drinking.

To go with the beer were roving platters of canapés, including a delicate Spanner Crab Cracker with Avocado and Crayfish Emulsion in a crisp wafer shell, and an oily Duck Liver Parfait with Brioche and Pepper Gel that melted sweetly in the mouth. 

Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED

Once we were all settled in front of our beautifully presented menus, our hosts for the night introduced themselves. To call them beer enthusiasts would be putting it lightly. Peter, the master brewer, will judge 60 different beers at a brewing competition, before heading down to the pub for a pint. Tim, aka the beer pilgrim, spends his days travelling the country in search of not only a good brew, but also ways of using hops, the key ingredient of beer, in new and interesting ways. Think hops bruschetta and hops sausages.  Their passion was palpable.

Heritage Beetroots Roasted in Hops with Barley Curd and Malted Onions

Our starter was a light but intricate starter of Heritage Beetroots Roasted in Hops with Barley Curd and Malted Onions. Beyond the soft, sweet chunks of beetroot were malty crisps of onion and granules of toasted barley, held together with hops-infused curd. Though delicate, the dish had a substantial earthiness to it that managed to hold the pungency of the hops.

To go with our first course were two beers – a light and malty Beck’s, and a sharper, herbaceous bottle of Urquell. 

Between courses I munched through warm rolls of bread, slathered in salted butter with a sprinkle of black truffle. I wasn’t entirely sold on the mild butter, but I found the dark, heavily baked rolls to be different but very enjoyable, its smokiness almost coffee-like in aroma.  

Blue Cod with Summer Leeks, Truffle and Roasted Hop Broth 

The entree – Blue Cod with Summer Leeks, Truffle and Roasted Hop Broth – was more substantial than it looked. The firm, white fish swam in a broth reminiscent of wild spinach, intermingling with sweet summer leek and a segment of juicy mushroom.  It was a warm dish, despite the delicate flavours.

Spitfire Kentish Ale/James Squire The Constable Copper Ale

I had a great experience with the beers paired up with this course – James Squire The Constable Copper Ale, and Spitfire Kentish Ale, both British in origin. Whilst they both started off sweet, the James Squire left a crisp citric aftertaste, whilst the Spitfire quickly turned bitter yet refreshing. However the truly remarkable change occurred after the cod, with both beers becoming miraculously clean and dewy, accompanying the firm fish perfectly. 

Robbins Island Wagyu with Mustard, Marrows and Onion Juice

I was really looking forward to the main of Robbins Island Wagyu with Mustard, Marrows and Onion Juice, and the flavours lived up to the elegant visuals. The exquisitely medium-rare wagyu was tender and clean, soaking up the caramelised fragrance of the roasted onions. Best of all was the rich, tangy dollop of mustard and marrow sauce, bringing out all the fattiness of the beef. 

As promised, the beers became heavier as the meal progressed. The well known Little Creatures Pale Ale was a harmonious balance of sweet and bitter, with a strong, floral scent of roses. The Knappsteine Reserve was much more showy than the Little Creatures, it’s sweet tropical flavours balanced out with a bold bitterness. 

Chocolate Mousse with Cherries, Cocoa and Shortbread 

There was no way a dessert of Chocolate Mousse with Cherries, Cocoa and Shortbread could go wrong. On a backdrop of thick, rich mousse was a potpourri of ingredients, from loud biscuit crumbs, to dollops of cream, and even whole blueberries and cherries. This ticked all the boxes – flavour, texture, and fun all in one. 

Feral Hop Hog

But what sort of beer does one serve with dessert? After an entire meal learning the virtues of balancing sweet and bitter, I thought I could guess, and I wasn’t too far from the mark. The Seven Sheds St Ella IPA was malty, but packed a guttural punch of bitter hops. The Feral Hop Hog was along the same lines, but more refreshing than the Seven Sheds thanks to the bitter pine aroma infused into it. They’re not my cup of tea, but I definitely get the appeal. 

Photo Courtesy of SUPPLIED

There was a lot of boozing going on throughout the night, but it was a very classy affair, despite what you may think 9 different beers and a crowd may equal. The food was enjoyable and very well thought out to complement the beers, though the portions were miniscule. Granted, I was probably the only person in the room who wasn’t sloshing with fluid by the end of the night. But most importantly, the two hours I spent with Peter and Tim at Circa the Prince served to change my opinion on beers entirely. I am definitely sold on the idea of matching beers with food; it is no longer a child to be put to bed so the adults can talk, but has a solid place at the table with the wines. Though I probably won’t partake, ever since that incident with the sangria and the almost-throwing-up (and that was just ONE glass), I hope to see beers accompanying meals in the near future as more than just a pre-meal refreshment.

Rating: 13/20 – beer – all grown up.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Circa the Prince.

Radio Mexico

11 Carlisle Street 
St Kilda, VIC 3182

http://www.radiomexico.com.au/

Sometimes the impromptu decisions are the best ones. After a pharmacy party that involved a cake the size of a small table, I decided that I couldn’t do our pre-planned burgers for dinner. And because I had Thai food just the previous week, I decided on my other go-to cuisine for when I’m feeling a bit bleh – Mexican.

One thing I love about working full time is the extra money I have to spend on food. Whilst Radio Mexico was on the slightly more pricey side just a few months back, it’s now almost pocket change. Like many reviews promised, the restaurant was buzzing, pumping, whatever you want to call it on a sunny Friday afternoon. There are plenty of food options on offer, but even more drinks, with margheritas and tequila taking centre stage. And all the Mexican beer you could chug (chug chug chug). 

The inside of Radio Mexico is more or less a restaurant-bar, but there’s a gorgeous deck outside that’s closer to a beer garden. It peers out onto one of the more colourful streets of St Kilda, and everyone is crammed shoulder to shoulder, jubilant with the end of the week. Everyone except us, because we were stuck at first aid training all weekend, but at least now we know what to do if someone chokes on their burrito. 

Guacamole ($9)

The Guacamole ($9) has received rave reviews all ‘round, but I love the green dip so much that I would’ve ordered it regardless. It turned out to be the best guacamole I’ve ever had, perfectly smooth with an immaculate balance of creamy and zesty, blended through with coriander and lime juice. The hand-cut chips on the side were worthy chariots for the avocado – thick, crunchy, and satisfying. 

Elotes ($6, 2pcs)

Elotes ($6, 2pcs)

Our beautiful guacamole dip was followed by a pair of the classic Mexican street snack – Elotes ($6, 2pcs), aka corn on the cob. There’s just the merest sprinkle of briny salt on top, but the juicy, charred sweetness of the corn was enough of a treat by itself. 

Potato and Chorizo Quesadilla ($9, 2 pcs)

Chris scoffed in indignation at the size of our Potato and Chorizo Quesadilla ($9, 2pcs), but I personally thought the two taco-sized pieces were the perfect size for sharing. Whilst not exciting, it was a sustaining mix of gooey cheese and soft potato. Shame about the microscopic flecks of chorizo. 

Barbacoa Taco/Carne Asada Taco ($6.5ea)

And of course, Tacos ($6.5ea). The Barbacoa Taco was true to its promise of slow-cooked lamb, the hunk of meat fall-apart tender and juicy. Unfortunately there wasn’t much else to the taco aside from the lamb and the faint bitterness of the purple cabbage. Our Carne Asada Taco was regrettably bland and disappointing; the steak was tough and chewy, and the shredded cheese on top seemed almost accidental. 

Pescado De La Casa Taco ($6.5)

Our final taco, the Pescado De La Casa Taco came out in a riot of colour, but the flavours once again fell flat. There was nothing wrong with the lightly grilled fillet of white fish, nor the black beans and corn salsa, but the entire concoction traipsed past light and fresh and into bland and dull. Overall the tacos were a bit of a disappointment, though we definitely couldn’t argue with the soft, sweet corn tortillas, nor the generous amount of topping. 

Overall, I would call Radio Mexican a definite success. The food may be a tad hit and miss, but it’s never too far from the mark, and you certainly can’t argue with the ambience, provided you didn’t get stuck on a little niche because a certain food blogger chose lighting over comfort.

Rating: 13.5/20 - #foodbloggerlyf.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Lau's Family Kitchen

4 Acland St 

St Kilda,VIC 3182

http://www.lausfamilykitchen.com.au/

Chinese food doesn’t excite me. In fact it tends to do the exact opposite a lot of the time. But like all things familiar, I find myself inevitably returning to it when I’m feeling down, when my appetite is low, or when I’m simply craving something comforting. 

Lau’s Family Kitchen is a small but cosy family-styled Cantonese restaurant tucked away in the unlikely locale of St Kilda.  For all its diminutive size, the Lau’s are of ex-Flower-Drum-Fame, and the esteem shows. It may have the bustling energy of a good Chinese restaurant, but the notes of the orient are quiet and classy with no boisterous reds to slam the senses, and the staff are polite and helpful. 

Unlike most Asian restaurants, the menu here isn’t overly long or complex. Rather, it serves up a small selection of homely Cantonese classics, such as crispy skin pork, and chilli prawns. There’s also a page of wines at the back of the menu. 

Fresh Squid with Salt and Pepper ($21)

I’ve always thought the Cantonese could work wonders with a deep fryer, and today, Chris and I tucked into a gorgeous plate of Fresh Squid with Salt and Pepper ($21). The light batter melted in the mouth, and the pieces of squid were the perfect balance between tender and chewy. Subtly flavoured with spices and shallots, it absolutely sings with a squeeze of lemon. 

Sauteed Eye Fillet ($36)

For mains, we shared a plate of Sautéed Eye Fillet ($36), and a bowl of Rice ($3.5pp) each. The rich, flavoursome pieces of beef had a center that was still pink and juicy, and were dressed simply in flavourful ginger soy, underscored with a hint of the grill. Kudos to a Chinese restaurant that doesn’t overcook their beef!

Our meal was topped off with a complimentary plate of buttery Almond Cookies. I normally feel rather jibbed paying more than $15 per head for Chinese food, because my mum cooks it so well, but not here. I’ll admit the prices are a bit steep for what it is, and I still hold a huge soft spot for Treasure Restaurant, but there really isn’t much not to like about Lau’s Family Kitchen. If you need to impress some picky eaters, you can’t go wrong here.

Rating: 14/20 – family favourite.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Golden Fields

2/157 Fitzroy Street 
St Kilda, VIC 3182

http://goldenfields.com.au/

Another year, another Andrew McConnell restaurant. I’ve been a little obsessed with the bloke ever since the extraordinary birthday dinner I had at Cumulus Inc last year, and less than a week after that, I had locked in Golden Fields as the dining destination for my next birthday. 

Golden Fields has been predictably popular ever since it’s opening, and even more so after it was crowned ‘Best New Restaurant of 2012’ by The Age. That said though, it was so quiet at 6pm on a Monday night that the 5 of us could have probably walked in without a booking. 

I quite liked the sparse and restrained interior, its austerity lightened up by a front wall made entirely of glass, and a large mirror hanging at the back. There was a long, tall marble bench lining the open kitchen in what seems like the signature style of the McConnell restaurants, though Golden Fields felt a lot more impersonal compared to Cumulus Inc. I did really like the chicken claw coat hooks though; they looked simultaneously like birds taking flight, and chicken claws lamenting their fate with a gesture that wailed ‘WHY ME?’

Sake

Chris, Daniel and I had arrived early, so we kicked things off with a small carafe of Sake, the name of which I had conveniently lost. My blunder aside though, this was a light and fruity sake that quickly dissolved into a spicy finish that held a hint of fennel. It was very easy to drink, but I could feel the heat spreading to the tip of my ears before I had even finished. 

John Dory, Salmon Roe, Scud Chilli, Ginger and Lime ($15)

Once everyone had arrived, we started our meal with a couple of raw dishes. The first was a plate of John Dory, Salmon Roe, Scud Chilli, Ginger and Lime ($15). The delicate fillets of fish were firm and delicious, the squeeze of lime and the tiny yet potent slivers of scud chilli dancing on the palate.  

Bonito, White Miso, Ponzu, Sesame Seaweed ($16)

Bonito, White Miso, Ponzu, Sesame Seaweed ($16)

Our other raw dish – Bonito, White Miso, Ponzu, Sesame Seaweed ($16) – was a fun little piece of DIY. We were instructed to put a piece of the fish on the crisp square of seaweed, top it with miso paste and shreds of white ginger, before wrapping it up and dipping it into the ponzu dressing. When you do it right, this is a lovely little parcel of melt-in-the-mouth fish, crisp seaweed, and a potent hit of umami. When you do it wrong like me however, you end up with a messy (albeit still delicious) handful of disintegrating seaweed to shove as quickly as possible into the mouth before it collapsed. 

Shredded Chicken, Sesame Paste, House-Made Cold Rice Noodles, Chilli Oil ($17)

We moved onto the more sizable dishes with the Shredded Chicken, Sesame Paste, House-Made Cold Rice Noodles, Chilli Oil ($17). This was a fresh yet substantial offering, the cool slippery rice noodles pairing wonderfully with crunchy veggies and tender poached chicken. The entire salad was drizzled with chilli oil that had a hint of bean paste to it, and slathered with a thick, nutty sesame sauce. I’ve nothing negative to say about this, it’s really quite yummy. However on the other hand, the flavours are so traditional and uninspired that it’s the kind of thing you can find in any Chinese restaurant with a half-decent chef. 

Szechuan Braised Eggplant, Minced Pork, Rice Noodle ($18)

The Szechuan Braised Eggplant, Minced Pork, Rice Noodle ($18) was the perfect comfort food for a chilly near-winter’s day in Melbourne. The sticky caramelised eggplant and pork mince were bursting with chilli and ginger, and it was especially good for me because it had the slippery rolled rice noodles that I spent the first 5 years of my life eating in China, but never had again since moving to Australia. 

Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder, Cumin, Salted Lemon ($68)

Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder, Cumin, Salted Lemon ($68)

The Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder, Cumin, Salted Lemon ($68) was a no-brainer of a choice. The lamb was faultlessly cooked so as to fall apart the moment it was cut open. Served with thick lemon dressing and a pinch of cumin salt if you so choose, this was simple, satisfying, and delicious. 

Whole Roast Flounder, Shredded Potato, Seaweed Butter ($36)

Our second main was the Whole Roast Flounder, Shredded Potato, Seaweed Butter ($36). It didn’t look as tantalising as the lamb shoulder, but I loved it just as much, if not more. The seaweed butter gave the silky fish an indescribable richness that’s both light yet decadent, and the pile of shredded potato on top was sour, slightly crunchy, and very addictive paired with the creamy tenderness of the fish. 

Peanut Butter Parfait, Salted Caramel, and Soft Chocolate ($12)

The first of our two desserts was the famed Peanut Butter Parfait, Salted Caramel, and Soft Chocolate ($12). The ingredient list was practically fail-safe, and the fluffy peanut butter ice cream with dark chocolate, drizzled with sticky salted caramel was indeed scrumptious. I will admit however that whilst I enjoyed it, I wasn’t wowed by it, as I found everything about it rather predictable. 

Baked Tapioca and Vanilla Custard Brulee ($15)

We finished our meal off with a shallow bowl of Baked Tapioca and Vanilla Custard Brulee ($15). The little popping spheres of tapioca were especially enjoyable in contrast to the silky custard and crisp toffee. And I thought I would never say this but, it could’ve done with a little more custard and a little less toffee, as the sugariness all but overwhelmed the delicate custard.

Overall, I would say that, food-wise, our meal at Golden Fields was quite good. There were no stand-out dishes but they were all enjoyable, even if you could find similar quality dining in any decent Chinese restaurant. The service however fared less well. It was distantly polite at best and rather non-existent all up. It was a pain how all the dishes arrived one after the other; it would’ve be fine if it were just two people dining, but not so good when there are 5 hungry stomachs sitting around the table. I liked Golden Fields, but only just.

Rating: 13.5/20 – bronze fields.  

The rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit