147 Johnston Street
Collingwood, VIC 3066
I
come from Yunnan, a province in China that’s bordered by Vietnam, Laos, and
Burma. The food in Yunnan is therefore vastly varied, owing to its many
neighbours and the large number of ethnic minorities that call Yunnan home. But
all in all, it’s not a cuisine that Melbourne is all that familiar with (though
you can get some fine examples at Colourful Yunnan). However, Yunnan does
have a much more well-known neighbour, culinary-wise – Sichuan, the home of
chilli, oil, and chilli oil galore. Hence, I grew up eating a lot of Sichuan food
as well, learning in the process that although tasty, it really isn’t a very
tactful cuisine, and tends to leave one reaching for the water to wash away the
film of spice, salt, and oil.
So
that explained why I was utterly bamboozled (and more than a little curious)
when I was invited by Shu of Shu
Restaurant to try what he dubbed to be ‘contemporary Sichuan food, made
with organic ingredients and served tapas-style’. Are we talking about the same
Sichuan here?
Like
Shu’s bold new vision for Sichuan food, the interior of his restaurant is fresh
and eclectic, paying homage to his artist days as a refurbished warehouse that
could double as an exhibition space. All the decorations are hand-made,
including a set of wire-frame chandeliers made by Shu himself.
And
the drinks are served in beakers! How quaint! I had a moment of squeamishness
when I recalled the chemical-caked beakers from my uni days, but these were
squeaky clean, and have hopefully seen no chemicals outside of dishwashing
liquid! Anyway, for just $60pp (or $45 per vegan-person), you’ll be treated to
12 delectable Sichuan fusion dishes served over 4 courses – definitely some
of the best value I’ve come across.
Steamed Tofu Pockets/Chilled Silken Tofu Jar/Daikon Roll |
Our
first course was a selection of cold dishes. Though the trio of starters
included an oyster with apple lime and black caviar, my aversion to that one
particular shellfish meant that we were served Steamed Tofu Pockets instead. Not that we minded of course;
the firm wedge of steamed tofu, marinated in spices, was split in half and
stuffed with a classic mix of roasted peanuts and crunchy preserved mustard
greens.
Chilled Silken Tofu Jar |
The
Chilled Silken Tofu Jar is
something the likes of which I’ve never seen before. A stout tumbler was
layered with lima beans, chickpeas, lentils, salmon fillet, house-made chilli
jam, and of course, silken tofu. We were instructed to give it a good mix and I
have to say, the result was fantastic.
Chilled Silken Tofu Jar |
The
tastes of this unique little salad were held together by the house-made chilli
jam, but it was the silken tofu and salmon, contrasting so vibrantly with the
chewy medley of beans, that really caught my attention. It was fresh, it was
flavoursome, and at $5 a pop on the a la carte menu, it’s hard to resist coming
back just for this alone.
Daikon Roll |
Continuing
to surprise was the Daikon Roll.
Though really just a salad of Asian vegetables and herbs, it was stunningly
presented, wrapped up in a translucent sheet of daikon and placed in a shallow
dish of spicy soy. Speaking of the spicy soy, this is the real stuff. Whilst
the Sichuan influences have been quite subtle up until this point, the
lip-numbing peppercorns in this sauce were unmistakable.
Crispy Fried Spring Roll of Flathead and Fennel Puree/Pan Fried Pork Dumplings/Pan Grilled Organic Chicken Wings |
Chris,
who up until this point had battled his way through the unfamiliar herbs and
unusual flavour combinations, was glad to see that the second course showcased
a selection of fried items. The Crispy
Fried Spring Roll of Flathead and Fennel Puree gave a new lease of life
to the age-old dim sum staple, and the Pan
Grilled Organic Chicken Wings were a succulent, caramelised treat,
rubbed in cumin and honey soy.
Pan Fried Pork Dumplings |
But
it was the Pan Fried Pork Dumplings
I was exceptionally fond of. Delicately pleated with a traditional filling of
pork and ginger, it was the freshly chopped red chillies in the sauce that made
the golden bottoms of these dumplings dance.
Tiger Prawn Salad |
Then
came the entrees. The first on the agenda was the Tiger Prawn Salad, tossed once again in that
peppercorn-heavy sauce that makes the lips tingle. The fire in the dish was
tempered by the cool, crunchy veggies and fresh herbs.
Slow-Cooked Beef Cheek Slices |
I
was incredibly impressed with the Slow-Cooked
Beef Cheek Slices. Whilst the marinade was nothing ground-breaking
(well to me anyway, as mum uses a very similar mix of spices for her
slow-cooked beef), consisting of what I’m guessing to be star anise,
peppercorns, chillies, and cooking wine, amongst other things, the texture of
the meat itself is a revelation. Never have I had beef that has been cooked to
such unctuous tenderness; I was cutting it into pieces with my spoon.
Pan Roasted Eggplant |
Pan Roasted Eggplant |
And
finally, Pan Roasted Eggplant,
smoky and soft, rolled up and stuffed with a mix of nuts and preserved veggies.
And that’s how our savouries drew to an end. Except it turns out Shu thought
that we were full (and in all fairness, I did say “we’re so full”), and kindly
decided not to force the mains upon us as well. I’M SO SORRY SHU!
And
you know what dishes we missed? Crispy
Fried Twice Cooked Pork Belly. Sweet
and Sour Organic Chicken Fillets. Slow
Cooked Organic Tofu. I could’ve eaten my hat with regret.
Organic Raw Avocado Cheesecake |
But
still, our meal had a sweet ending. Defying tradition one last time, Shu served
up a slice of Organic Raw Avocado
Cheesecake. By itself, the cake was a bit bland, though the buttery
flavour of the avocado really shone through. Add in the ginger syrup and dried
blueberries however, and this dessert transformed itself into a sweet and tasty
treat that left a feeling of utter virtuousness.
I
like the food at Shu Restaurant, but what I was really impressed with was Shu’s
vision of turning Sichuan cuisine into something quirky and elegant, and how well
those ideas were translated from paper to plate. Fresh and innovative, this
dinner defied all my expectations of what Sichuan cuisine can and can’t be. Good
show.
Rating: 14/20 – sichuan tapas. no, seriously.
This rating reflects my personal
experience at the time of visit.
Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest
of Shu Restaurant.
I'm so glad you enjoyed this place - I think their vegan menu is wonderful.
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