Kao Thai

347 Sydney Rd 

Brunswick, VIC 3056

I like relaxing on Friday nights with a good meal, but that’s often complicated by the need to blog said meal. And that’s why I find myself foregoing the fancy Friday night date more and more, in lieu of a simple and companionable dinner. The multi-course tapas blog post can wait for when I’m a little more awake. 

Though my love for authentic Thai food is undying, I have to admit I’ve developed a bit of a grudging soft spot for its mildly westernised incarnation. And despite plenty of reviews insisting that Kao Thai is the best and most authentic Thai food in Melbourne, I was pretty sure that at least the second part of that statement is a bit of a fib. Still, that doesn’t bother me as much as it used to, and I was happy to settle for something simple and delicious. 

Like most places along Sydney Road, Kao Thai is homely but incredibly cramped. There is however a quiet and pretty little walkway, which led to a quaint sheltered courtyard. Though everything was simple, it was all very welcoming, and none of it was gaudy or overdone.  

Thai Milk Tea ($3.5)

I’m a big lover of Thai Milk Tea ($3.5), but whilst this had the milky sweetness and enticing orange colour, it failed to deliver on the actual tea aspect. If you don’t like tea, you’ll love this tea. 

Pad Keemao with Beef ($13.9) 

Our plate of Pad Keemao with Beef ($13.9) was rather good. Though the wok-smoke and fish sauce made the rice noodles taste more Malaysian than Thai, the balance was shifted back by the distinct aroma of Thai basil and a small amount of green peppercorns.  It was actually very tasty, the mouthfuls of slippery rice noodles going down a treat with the crunch of vegetables and tender sliced beef. 

Red Chicken Curry ($14.9)

Similarly hearty and delicious was the Red Chicken Curry ($14.9). Despite my initial impression of ‘this is much too sweet!’, the coconut cream actually segued well into a deep, aromatic richness, with just a hint of spiciness. 

Red Chicken Curry ($14.9)

The gravy was well balanced between the warm and comfort of cumin and red chillies, and the sharper additions of lemongrass, kaffir lime, and peppercorns. The chicken was doled out in large chunks, and the vegetables were once again crisp and fresh. There was way too much curry there for a single serve of Jasmine Rice ($2.5), no matter how generously we scooped the sauce on, and I was left dolefully eyeing the remainder.

Despite only being semi-authentic, I liked Kao Thai way more than I thought I would. The food was unchallenging and delicious, and sometimes that’s really all I’m after.

Rating: 13.5/20 – easy blogging.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Mabrown

Southern Cross Lane

111 Bourke St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000

Quail is one of those delicious but under-utilised meats. Thankfully places like Mabrown exists. Instead of being the same-same and specialising in fried chicken, this place is treated as a fried quail pit stop by most punters. But they do actually do other dishes as well, though you wouldn’t be able to tell it from most diners’ tables. The food here carries a south-east Asian influence, and that’s what I’m here to check out today, along with the fried quail of course.

Drunken Chicken ($9.5, 2ppl)

To kick things off, we were served the ubiquitous starter of Drunken Chicken ($9.5, 2ppl). The chicken was poached to delicate, silken perfection, sitting in broth flavoured with sesame oil.

Drunken Chicken ($9.5, 2ppl)

However, instead of having the alcohol infused into the marinade, we were given a little shot glass of Chinese cooking wine to pour over the chicken. That meant that the smell of alcohol prevailed over the taste. A less traditional way to do things for sure, but perfectly fine for those who aren’t so fussed about the drunken aspect of the chicken.

Salt and Pepper Quail ($8pc)/Spicy Quail ($8pc)

Our two pieces of Salt and Pepper Quail ($8pc) and two pieces of Spicy Quail ($8pc) looked ridiculously tame compared to the platters of quail ordered by the other tables, and they do taste pretty darn good. They were sweet and succulent with a thin layer of caramelised skin. The spicy quail was topped with a smoky chilli oil which, mingled with the sweet marinade, left me licking my fingers clean.

Peking Sauce Beef ($22.8)

I’m pretty sure that Peking Sauce Beef ($22.8) is a non-Chinese invention. Yet there is no denying that the strips of battered beef covered in plummy sweet and sour sauce, though rather tough, are downright addictive.

Wok Tossed Juicy Prawns in XO Sauce ($28.8)

Up next were scaled down portions of prawns, served two ways. The first was Wok Tossed Juicy Prawns in XO Sauce ($28.8). This spicy seafood sauce, chock full of fried shallots and shrimp, was the perfect accompaniment to the plump, fresh prawns.

Wok Tossed Juicy Prawns in Ginger and Spring Onion Sauce ($28.8)

The Wok Tossed Juicy Prawns in Ginger and Spring Onion Sauce ($28.8) boasted a much more traditional flavour palate, the lightness and umami bringing out the delicateness of the seafood.

Archar Barramundi ($22.8)

Out last dishes were fillets of fried barramundi, once again done two ways. The Archar Barramundi ($22.8) hit like a punch, the vinegar and turmeric delivering a sour and pungent right hook, before mellowing out to a surprisingly warm finish of ginger and palm sugar. Needless to say, this dish definitely impressed.

Tom Yum Barramundi ($19.8)

The Tom Yum Barramundi ($19.8) was visually stunning, and though less explosive, tasted just as good as its predecessor. Despite the mean looking sauce, it wafted gently with a balanced mix of lemongrass, ginger, and chilli for an aromatic finish. 

Coconut and Sweet Corn Ice Cream

We insisted we were full but our host was such a sweetie that we soon had a tub of Coconut and Sweet Corn Ice Cream in front of us. Though not a flavour I’ve had before, it is an absolute genius of a combination, and the chewy corn kernels added texture to flavour. It was a neat and tasty solution for a sweet tooth that didn’t leave me feeling too guilty. 

Whilst Mabrown is not all that far from your average Chinese restaurant, with a vibe that reminded me of the university restaurants on Chris’ campus, there are some rather good dishes on the menu. And even if that’s not your thing, I agree with everyone else – the quail alone is good enough to come back for. 

Rating: 14/20 – pabrown.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Mabrown .

Mr Nice Guy

535 Little Lonsdale St 

Melbourne, VIC 3000

I’m just going to come out and say it: I love blogging and writing about food, but I’m rubbish at writing intros. There are only so many times I can say ‘I like food x’ and not sound like a broken record. And now that Thai food has picked up in Melbourne I’ve lost my go-to rant of ‘why is there no good Thai food’ as well. Bummer (??).

I spotted Mr Nice Guy on my way out of a dinner at Mapo Grill. It was the colourful tables and cute chalkboard drawings that caught my eye. To my surprise, the menu on the window toted pad grapow gai and the like, instead of... I don’t know what I expected, but tom yum definitely wasn’t it. 

Less surprising was the brunch on offer during daylight hours at this kitschy, laid-back little cafe. Thai and brunch seems a weird combination, but according to most of the reviews I’ve read, they’ve been swinging it just fine. The staff were as sweet as the bushels of flowers on the tables. 

Nam Tok Moo ($12.9)

Thai salads have life worked out. The mixture of sweet and sour, meat and herbs defies boring. The smell of lime and mint wafted up tantalisingly from the Nam Tok Moo ($12.9) the moment it came to our table, the aromas of the herbs released by warm pieces of pork neck that reminded me a lot of good BBQ pork. I like my tamarind and lime dressing to be a little sharper and less sweet, but other than that, the flavour profile is absolutely perfect. 

Pad Kee Mao Beef ($15.9)

Pad Kee Mao Beef ($15.9)

As our ‘filler’ dish, we shared a pleasingly generous plate of Pad Kee Mao Beef ($15.9). Glistening from the wok and with just enough chilli to tingle, the chewy noodles contrasted delightfully with the handful of crisp sprouts scattered on top. It was so richly flavoured with Thai basil and green peppercorns that it barely needed the nubbins of beef.

Mr Nice Guy Famous Oven Grilled Chicken ($19, half)

Believe it or not, despite eating half my meals out, I still try and maintain some semblance of health. And that’s how I ended up having the Mr Nice Guy Famous Oven Grilled Chicken ($19, half) over the pork belly.

Mr Nice Guy Famous Oven Grilled Chicken ($19, half)

Though simple, I’ve hardly had a better piece of roast chicken. The brining meant that the meat was moist and succulent, and the quick trip into the oven left the chicken melt-in-mouth tender. It sat on a bed of spicy cauliflower cooked until just crisp, and the jug of chicken jus added extra flavour.

It may have been because of all the salivating I had done during the day over the promise of Thai food, but I thought this meal was seriously good. Though not the most authentic, the flavours were bold and delicious, and the chefs have clearly put their own little twist in. Consider me a fan.

Rating: 15/20 – mr brightside.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Chilli Lili

15 Johnston St 

Fitzroy, VIC 3065

Chilli Lili. Chilli Lili. Chilli Lili! I can’t be the only one who thinks the name of this new Thai restaurant is a blast to say, because according to Liliana, for whom the restaurant is named, people were walking past chanting the restaurant’s name before it had even opened.

Located in Fitzroy, Chilli Lili is a refreshing change from the many vegan-and-gluten-free-and-politically-correct restaurants along Johnston Street. Walking in on a warm Tuesday evening, we were welcomed into a house that was refurbished to be bright and modern, though it can’t shake that hint of grunge so characteristic of Fitzroy.

Seasoned Chicken Crackling ($3.9)

Before the entrees, we were treated to a starter of Seasoned Chicken Crackling ($3.9). You know those golden, knobbly pieces of skin you pull off your fried chicken because you know they’re bad for you? Well this is nothing but those; nothing but crunch, many secret herbs and spices, and glorious deep frying. Like popcorn chicken without the chicken. I’m really not a fan of Rihanna but you know the song Hate That I Love You? With every piece of chicken I ate, the urge to sing it became a little stronger. 

Entree Sampler ($12.9)

In comparison to the fried chicken skin, the Entree Sampler ($12.9) was almost virtuous. There were two pieces of the Chilli Lili Wings, and each bite was like having that evil chicken crackling again, except this time it was accompanied by hot, juicy chicken as well. 

Entree Sampler ($12.9)

The second entree was the Lao Sweet Beef Jerky, made in-house. Sweet and cinnamon, the flavour is wrung from the meat with each chew. The dry, crumbly texture of it was a perfect accompaniment to the sweet and chewy sticky rice. Finally, we had the Chilli Lili Lao Sausages. I found this to be a refreshing change from most sausages, which are greasy and rich. Instead, this one was coarse and wholesome, herbed gently with lemongrass and kaffir lime to give it a mild fragrance.

Green Apple Salad ($10.9)

After our entrees were cleared away, we were treated to two traditional Thai salads... but with a twist. The first is the Green Apple Salad ($10.9), which was served like a traditional papaya salad, with the apples julienned and tossed in tamarind sauce. And it tasted fantastic – crisp and refreshing, the sweetness of the apple mingled well with the tangy tamarind sauce. Then the chilli hit like a train. Having learnt my lesson from Ayatana, I quickly stopped, though not without regret. 

Crying Tiger Beef Salad ($16.9)

After the apple salad, the spice level of the Crying Tiger Beef Salad ($16.9) was kindly taken down a step for us. The presentation for this dish was top notch, and tasted even better than it looked. The length of scotch fillet was sliced thinly so the medium rare centre showed, and each piece was rubbed with salt, pepper, and a dash of oyster sauce, ideal for bringing out the beefiness in the meat. The Thai herb salad was equally delicious, a refreshing mix of Asian greens, including generous amounts of cooling mint, dressed with a squeeze of lime.

Three Kind Curry ($24.9)

More places should do a Three Kind Curry ($24.9). Just because the massaman curry is my favourite, it doesn’t mean that I don’t want to try all the other curries on the menu. And with the three kind curry, this problem is circumvented with a trio of the most popular curries scaled down into cute little soup pots. 

Thai Green Curry

The first thing about the Thai Green Curry that hit me was the smell. From the little pot wafted the most mouth-watering fragrance, a combination of coconut milk, thai basil, and chicken. The sauce was rich and creamy, a tad too sweet but offset nicely by the hint of chilli. I especially appreciated that the vegetable selection extended beyond frozen vegetable mix, into bamboo shoots and baby eggplants. 

Massaman Beef Curry

The Massaman Beef Curry is the most popular curry by far, and definitely the best massaman I’ve had in a while. This time the aroma was thick and nutty, and the whole chunks of pressure cooked beef fell apart with the twist of a spoon. I was delighted to find a whole waxy baby potato at the bottom, soaking up the sweetness of cinnamon and star anise. It was indulgent to the very last drop. 

Thai Red Pork Curry

Lastly, the Thai Red Pork Curry. Compared to the other two, this curry isn’t nearly as full-bodied and distinctive. However it was good to have something lighter and more familiar as a counterpoint, and there was a good deal of vegetables to offset the richness of the massaman and green curry. 

Mango Ice Cream with Pandan Sticky Rice ($7.9)

I felt a little bit smug at this point; I was full, but not nearly at the point where I have to be rolled out the door. Except then we were presented with the Mango Ice Cream with Pandan Sticky Rice ($7.9). Despite not being mango season, they somehow managed to get their hands on some beautifully fresh mangos, which was served with a scoop of pandan sticky rice, and the most sensational mango ice cream. Not only was the flavour fruity and pure, the perfect balance between light and indulgent, it even had real diced mangos in it. Turns out Lili had searched Thailand for the best mango ice cream, before getting it shipped over to Australia. Now that’s dedication.

The Thai scene in Melbourne has been getting rather competitive recently, and that sort of competition tends to bring out the best, such as places like Chilli Lili. Not only is the food tasty and authentic (if you look past the spring rolls and fish cakes), but they’re also not afraid to experiment a little with more unusual offerings, such as the curry cheese croquettes. Lili even let it slip that they’re developing a tapas menu, which includes a delectable sounding massaman slider, so keep your eyes out and tastebuds ready!

Rating: 15/20 – chilli ray.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Chilli Lili. 

Rice Paper Scissors

19 Liverpool Street 

Melbourne, VIC 3000
http://www.ricepaperscissors.com.au/

Sometimes I forget about why I blog. It’s unfortunate that when I get more involved with a hobby (such as food blogging!), it will slowly morph over time from hobby to commitment, and commitment to chore. There are days where blogging feels like a dead weight to be lugged around on top of my work and study obligations. And in times like this, it’s good to pause and to remember what led me to food blogging in the first place – a love of food and new experiences.  

After forcing myself to take a short break, I’m back at Rice Paper Scissors feeling if not like a new person, then at least somewhat refreshed and more excited about blogging. Though the smell of fresh paint has long since dissipated, Rice Paper Scissors has only been open for a year or so, but managed to whip itself up a fanatical following in that time. Our plans to visit on a Friday after work were thwarted by a 1+ hour wait, despite arriving just 10 minutes after opening. Oh how I miss not working 8-5!

Rice Paper Scissors is my sort of bar, where the food is just as revered as the alcohol. The menu is short and succinct, consisting of two dozen or so (that’s including the daily specials) street-food-styled dishes taken from South-East Asia. Most couples opt for the Share the Love option – any 5 dishes for $55, to be split between two people. Though not necessarily cheaper than ordering the dishes individually, as they are all somewhere around the $10 mark, it’s a relief to know exactly how much food to order, with the added bonus of a predictable bill at the end. The menu suggested that we ‘use our hands’, and the suggestion is so sincere that we were given a small finger bowl along with our cutlery. Other street-styled restaurants, taken note!

Twice Cooked Pork Belly with Chilli Caramel Sauce ($11)

Always hard to resist is the Twice Cooked Pork Belly with Chilli Caramel Sauce ($11). Very used to Melbourne’s serving sizes, I found the four bricks of golden pork belly to be surprisingly generous, a theme that carried through the rest of our meal. Ribboned with fat and crackling, the pork belly showed its true potential when dipped into the sticky chilli jam, which was a harmonious yet spirited blend of sweet and tangy, and just enough chilli to tingle. 

BBQ Lamb Ribs ($11)

The BBQ Lamb Ribs ($11) were marinated in a mixture of soy and Mekong whisky, and melted sweetly and succulently off the bone, helped by a generous amount of fat. Though the marinade could’ve capitalised from more depth of flavour, the lemongrass and coriander garnishing the ribs provided a prime opportunity to liven up the lamb. 

Thai Ceviche ($12)

I really liked the way the Thai Ceviche ($12) was served in a small metal tin. It reminded me a little of the canned fish with black beans I used to eat when I was younger (it’s also the first image that pops up if you google ‘Chinese canned fish’)

Thai Ceviche ($12)

But this was a far cry from greasy, preserved fillets of dace. Bright and spicy, the diced kingfish was mixed with a mouth-watering blend of chilli, fresh herbs, red onions, and a squeeze of lemon. The texture of the crackers varied a bit, and some were rather stale and tough, but I was quite happy eating the ceviche straight from the spoon. 

Thai Fried Chicken ($11)

I had started to regret ordering so many rich dishes by this point, but there was no way I could’ve gone past the Thai Fried Chicken ($11). Once again, bonus points for presentation that reminded me nostalgically of paper boxes of chicken nuggets. 

Thai Fried Chicken ($11)

Despite being golden and crunchy, the batter was actually quite wet. I suspect this was due to the fact that the batter was actually fairly minimal; instead, the chefs decided to let the subtle flavours of ginger, chilli, and coriander root soak into the chicken itself. The meat was tender and incredibly moist, and I almost burnt myself trying to eat these in my eagerness. 

Son-In-Law Eggs ($9)

Son-In-Law Eggs ($9)

Finishing up our mini-banquet were the Son-In-Law Eggs ($9). These were a little odd; instead of being soft boiled then deep fried, the eggs were fried sunny side up, before being blanketed with herbs and chilli. I’ll admit, it was nice not having to worry about egg yolk getting everywhere, but I felt that the sauce could’ve used more backbone to it – too much caramel, and not enough chilli.

Only minor things stopped Rice Paper Scissors from becoming my new favourite hangout. Though the service was friendly, it suffered from inconsistency. Our tiny space along the bar became rapidly cluttered when we were served 4 dishes within 5 minutes, but when we requested that they slowed the food down, we didn’t end up getting our final dish until we asked, despite our table having been cleared. Petty I know, but it’s just frustrating watching all the food go cold in front of our eyes. Still, Rice Paper Scissors is pretty great, and is the answer for everyone who can’t be bothered queuing up outside Chin Chin for half their evening.

Rating: 15.5/20 – rice beats scissors.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.