Isabella's at Rochford

878 - 880 Maroondah Hwy 

Coldstream, VIC 3770
http://www.rochfordwines.com.au/

Though I’ve yet to cultivate an appreciation for the mystery that is wine, I have always loved the concept of wine tasting. Right now my palate is limited to sweet dessert wines, and more recently, vermouth. With that said though, I constantly feel as if understanding is dancing teasingly at the tips of my fingers, and maybe the mystery of the grape will be laid bare for me with just one more sip! 

One thing I do understand however is food, and although I don’t think drunk-driving is crash-hot (see what I did there), there were no downsides to a trip out to the Yarra Valley to sample the autumn menu at Isabella’s at Rochford. 

Rochford is a beautiful country estate nestled amongst acres of vineyards. Though it was overcast, the panoramic view over the rolling hills was nevertheless enchanting, especially amidst the tinkling of cutlery in a wood-fire scented restaurant. 

Before getting to the restaurant however, we walked through the wine tasting bar, as well as a boutique that sold the best of what the Yarra Valley has to offer. There was everything from hand-poured candles to fat chunks of nougat, and cheeky aprons to go with a cheeky bar of chocolate. 

Multigrain Sourdough

The autumn menu came as a choice of Two Courses ($65) or Three Courses ($73) from a set menu, and being the greedy guts that I am, I insisted on the whole shebang. We whetted our appetites with a slice of warm Multigrain Sourdough, still steaming from the oven, and a frothy swirl of whipped butter sprinkled with the unmistakably earthy aroma of truffle. 

Crab Toast

The Crab Toast was first, a thin slice of toasted pumpernickel bread topped with shredded crab mixed with mayo and herbs. Garnished with capers and chopped tomato, it was a light but indulgent start to the meal. 

Panzanella Salad

Planning for the long haul, we chose the Panzanella Salad in favour of the corned beef sirloin, as we had some meat-heavy mains to come. Though simple, the combination of house-made ricotta, croutons, and tomatoes made for a surprisingly flavoursome salad.

Panzanella Salad

The tomatoes were like multicoloured jewels, ranging in hue from the palest green to a deep purple. The house-made herbed ricotta was smooth and creamy. The oomph in the salad came from the petals of pickled onion, and the overall result was delicate and refreshing. 

Monkfish Medallions, Baby Calamari, and Jamon Serrano

I have a confession: I only ordered the Monkfish Medallions, Baby Calamari, and Jamon Serrano because my stomach didn’t feel up to taking on suckling pig, but it was a good thing that I did. The monkfish fillets were firm but pearly, contrasting with the wrapper of smoky jamon, then interrupted again by a smear of sharp lemon puree. The calamari was similarly well done with a melt-in-the-mouth texture and a peppery batter. It was all served on a bed of wild rice and crisp broccolini florets, dressed with just a squeeze of lemon. Though clean and elegant, the jamon and the density of the fish made it a surprisingly hearty meal – an absolutely delicious transition from summer to autumn. 

Wagyu Wellington

There was a $10 surcharge on the Wagyu Wellington, but if you ask me, it was entirely justified. The medium rare wagyu was gorgeously succulent, paying the high-grade beef the respect it deserves. Slathered on top was an indulgent paste of mushroom and pate for an extra burst of earthy umami. The golden layers of pastry initially flaked, then melted as it soaked up the juices from the roast beef. It was all extremely decadent, which made the fruity Pinot Noir jus all the more apt. 

Rochford Cappuccino

It’s not often that we order two desserts, so I took the chance to order something Chris doesn’t fancy – the Rochford Cappuccino. It was a tiramisu served whimsically in a coffee cup, consisting of layers upon layers of thick custard, whipped cream, and fluffy sponge, finished off with biscuit crumbs. 

Chocolate Brownie

Meanwhile, Chris couldn’t stay away from the Chocolate Brownie, deconstructed and served with freeze-dried berries and chopped nuts. It was unfortunate that it tasted nowhere as good as it looked, with the only standout being the invigoratingly summery scoop of strawberry sorbet. Nevertheless, Chris mopped it all up because hey, warm brownies.

Though the food at Isabella’s was uninspiring, I still enjoyed the meal very much all up. Everything was well-cooked, and though there was nothing unexpected, everything was delicious, and I’m sure it would’ve been even better paired with a few wines. And if you’re not into wining or dining, you can always take a guided Segway tour of the vineyards.

Rating: 13.5/20 – the wellington was delicious, no doubt aboot it!

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Isabella’s at Rochford. 

Saint Crispin

300 Smith St

Collingwood, VIC 3066

http://www.saintcrispin.com.au/

If 2014 has taught me anything, it’s that sleeping past 7am is a blessing, and that Modern Australian food isn’t as boring as I thought. Not that I would choose it over Spanish food, but when a co-worker suggested Saint Crispin for Chris and my anniversary meal after I had failed to book Attica two months in a row, I readily accepted her idea.

Saint Crispin sky-rocketed to fame in the short time it’s been open, earning itself one hat and the title of ‘best new restaurant’ in 2013, before elevating itself to an elusive two hats in 2014. However it’s down to earth in a way only Fitzroy/Collingwood manages to be, and despite being nothing short of fine-dining, the restaurant felt a lot more like lazy Sunday lunch.  

House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream

Unable to decide between 5 and 7 courses (do we really need 3 mains and 2 desserts?), I was delighted to discover that the 6 Course Chefs’ Tasting Menu ($120pp) was also an option. With that matter settled, we started off with House-Baked Bread, Butter, and Caramelised Onion Cream. The bread was soft and crusty, the butter spread like it was churned that very morning, and the little dollop of onion jam was dainty and sweet, like slivers of red onion seared briefly on a grill. 

Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd

Served alongside the bread was a complimentary starter of Buckwheat and Sesame Seed Crisp with Goats Curd. Good things come in small packages, and this one packed a surprising wallop of flavour. The crumbly tuile had a sticky-sweet nuttiness that almost made it dessert-like, but was reined in by the pungent goat’s curd and its accompanying sharpness.  

Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho 

The Asparagus, Roasted Parmesan Custard, Radish and Gazpacho was likely the most boring looking and sounding dish I’ve ever had the misfortune to be served in a degustation. Yet as I ate, the genius of it dawned on me. The dewy asparagus ribbons and spears were light and summery tossed in the parmesan gazpacho, yet the nuttiness of the oats hinted at something more substantial. It was a light starter that segued perfectly into the rest of our meal.

Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket

The Yellowfin Tuna, Calamari, Mussels, Tapioca, and Rocket was the reason I felt unsatisfied with just 5 courses – I simply couldn’t leave without trying it. The meaty bricks of tuna, lightly seared, danced with the deep-sea brininess of mussels and shavings of calamari, whilst the pearls of tapioca slipped about with the sharp herbal aromas of rocket. To put it simply, this was a boggling array of textures and flavours that left us scratching our heads even as we licked our plates clean. 

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts is actually my first experience with tartare, and it surprised me with just how clean it tasted. Mixed with finely diced chives, onion, and the barest hint of garlic, the droplets of beef were plump and sweet, contrasting marvellously with the waxy saltiness of the bresaola. The addition of potato crisps and a single onion ring was a delightful touch of whimsy. 

Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas

The Atlantic Salmon, Parsley Risotto, Prawn, Broad Bean, and Peas came with a wave of prawn-scented foam reminiscent of sea spray.  The confit process was so gentle that the fish still looked pearly and barely cooked, but in reality it dissolved upon the tongue.

Wagyu Tartare and Bresaola, Egg Yolk, Hay Ash, and Pine Nuts

The flavours of this dish were a beautiful tapestry of the best the ocean and land had to offer. The bed of risotto was of course perfectly cooked, each grain sweetened with peas and creamy with butter, and the morsels of prawn were plump and bouncy. 

Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake

The final savoury dish, and the richest one, was the Bannockburn Chicken in the Style of Coq au Vin, Bacon and Shiitake. A modern take on the provincial French classic, this was a delectably earthy finale to our mains. The chicken soaked up the umami of the shiitake mushrooms, whilst the fruitiness of the red wine shone through the gravy-like jus. I was however not a fan of the bacon and shiitake pastry – it tasted no better than a spring roll if you ask me!

Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf

Though generic-looking, the Chocolate Turron, Coconut, Charcoal Soil, and Fig Leaf was anything but. The bar of ganache was the richest, smoothest dark chocolate, and the smoky, woody aroma of fig leaf lifted it to something worthy of chefs’ hats. Meanwhile, Chris was raving about the crispy and lightly salted layer of biscuit at the bottom; in his words, it was ‘all about that base’. 

Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce

And to finish, the most delightful petite four of Ginger and Prune Madeleines with Brandy Sauce. This tasted (very aptly) of Christmas; the cake was spicy and fruity, and the bourbon cream fluffy, tangy, and just a little bit naughty – but not too naughty for presents! 

Saint Crispin is lovely, and with Cutler and Co. – another fantastic Modern Australian experience – being so close by, I can’t help but draw comparison between the two restaurants. Whereas Cutler and Co. was deceptively simple, the frills and ribbons of our lunch at Saint Crispin actually revealed a very down-to-earth flavour palate. But that’s not to say it’s unrefined – every element of our meal was carefully thought out and put together. My only complaint would be the service, which was rather disinterested and aloof, but the meal itself was hard to fault.  

Rating: 16.5/20 – patron saint of good food.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.

Shira Nui

247 Springvale Rd

Glen Waverley, VIC 3150

I count myself exceptionally lucky to have a Japanese restaurant as stellar as Shira Nui in my neighbourhood. Instead of being grandiose or tacky, Shira Nui has opted for a clean and restrained approach – in true Japanese style. And though I count the omakase option to be the one of the best meals I’ve ever had, I’ve decided to give the a la carte menu a go instead, partially because Chris isn’t the hugest fan of sushi, and partially because I’m convinced that it’ll be just as breathtaking of a meal. 

Whilst we perused the short and traditional menu, we were served the familiar appetiser of pickled onions and fried fish, the sweet and tangy flavours waking up the palate. 

Shira Nui Nigiri ($45)

Just because we weren’t doing the omakase, it didn’t mean that I’m passing up the opportunity to have sushi at Shira Nui. The Shira Nui Nigiri ($45) consisted over 9 perfect specimens of seafood, draped lavishly over little balls of rice.

The Ark Shell is one I remember very well from the omakase, not for its taste, but for the slick, crunchy texture carrying just a whiff of the ocean.

I’m not usually a fan of Tuna, but when the thick, ruby coloured piece of fish is so beautifully tender, melting gently on the tongue, it’s hard to resist.

I had expected Shira Nui’s Salmon nigiri to be the best I’ve ever had, and it breezed past my expectations effortlessly. Taken from the belly and streaked with fat, it hits the tongue with a wave of buttery richness that trumps anything I’ve had, salmon or otherwise. 

Shira Nui Nigiri ($45)

After the decadence of the salmon nigiri, the Kingfish, light and firm, was a refreshing change.

The Mackerel was one I haven’t had before. On the fishiness scale (see what I did there) of sushi fish, mackerel is very much up there. I wouldn’t go out of my way to have it again as I found the fishiness was quite overwhelming, but I appreciated the thin slice of sweet seaweed holding the sprinkle of spice mix to the fish, and I won’t deny that the flavour combination is superb. 

Shira Nui Nigiri ($45)

The Seared Ocean Trout was another selection from the omakase that I’ve been dreaming about. Quickly seared so that whilst the top side acquired a layer of smokiness to accompany the miso dressing, the underside remained plump and sweet.

The Eel nigiri was another miracle of blowtorching. The slab of eel, already fat and smoky, was heated just enough for the glaze to caramelise into a charred, toffee-like sweetness.

The final two pieces of sushi provided the perfect opportunity to study the difference between Flying Fish Roe and Salmon Roe. Whereas the tiny flying fish roe crunched its way into a mouthful of brininess, the salmon roe popped generously under slight pressure  for a milder, sweeter experience 

Nasi Dengaku ($15)

I was curious to see what Shira Nui could do with a dish as a humble as Nasi Dengaku ($15), and they didn’t disappoint. For starters, the eggplant was outstanding; it was cooked to a pulpy tenderness perfect for soaking up miso paste, but the exterior retained enough form to carry a hint of caramelisation from the pan. We were instructed to try the dark miso first, and the taste of it was strong and earthy, even slightly fermented. The light miso on the other hand retained the earthiness, but swapped the deeper tones for a sweet nuttiness. Never have I been so impressed with such a simple dish.  

Yose Nabe ($30)

In true Japanese style, we finished with a more filling dish of Yose Nabe ($30), a hot pot of seafood, chicken, beef, and vegetables cooked with udon in a light broth. 

Yose Nabe ($30)

If I were rich, this is what I would eat whenever I was under the weather. The seafood had been cooked until its flavours seeped into the stock, forming a deep, delicate umami that reflected back into the rare slices of marbled beef. The thick strands of udon were slippery and chewy, and tasted of ripened wheat.

What I like so much about Shira Nui comes down to just how good the produce is, and how much respect the chefs have for it. They only take the best of the best, and nothing is over-dressed and over-seasoned; instead, a backdrop is provided that allows the produce to shine. And for that reason, I think that the omakase is still the best way to experience what Shira Nui has to offer, though for the people who don’t eat sushi, the a la carte is still likely some of the best traditional Japanese food you’ll ever have.

Rating: 16/20 – best of the best.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Cutler and Co.

55-57 Gertrude St 

Fitzroy, VIC 3065

http://www.cutlerandco.com.au/

The stars seemed to have aligned just right this year, because just a couple months after an extravagant long lunch at Vue De Monde, I found myself at Cutler and Co, the flagship restaurant of my beloved Andrew McConnell of Cumulus Inc. fame. Did I mention I also plan on having dinner at Attica before the year wraps up?

Photo via  http://www.australiandesignreview.com/interiors/617-cutler-co

Chris and I have been to enough nice restaurants to have a list of places that has our favourite bread, butter, and bathrooms. Cutler and Co takes the cake for best interior though. I thought it had the air of an abandoned cottage in the woods, with a hint of the fantastical about it, whilst Chris, who was facing the bar, thought it slick and modern. We both agreed that it was gorgeous though. Unfortunately I couldn’t take (or find) any photos that did the decor justice, so you’ll have to go and see for yourself. 

Like all of Andrew McConnell’s other restaurants, the menu is very much designed to be shared. And because more is always more when it comes to food, we opted for the 6-Course Tasting Menu ($130pp) in order to try as many things as we can. When I came back from the bathroom (definitely top 3 material), there was a basket of bread sitting on our table, along with house-churned butter, sea salt, and beetroot chutney. This spread took the awards for best bread and best butter in one fell swoop, the lashings of pale, creamy butter melting into the hot rolls of sourdough, which were ensconced with a crust that crunched audibly with each bite. 

Fromage Blanc Cigars

We were treated to a mini-entree of Fromage Blanc Cigars, presented whimsically in a Cuban cigar case. We were instructed to start at the end that contained the salty olive tapenade, work our way through the centre of mild cream cheese wrapped in the crispiest of wafers, finishing with a zing at the dollop of white balsamic vinegar. Simple yet stunning, this nibble set the tone for the rest of the meal.

Cured Kingfish, Eel Brandade, Dill Oil, and Buttermilk 

Cured Kingfish, Eel Brandade, Dill Oil, and Buttermilk 

Our first dish, the Cured Kingfish, Eel Brandade, Dill Oil, and Buttermilk was a dainty sculpture sitting in a shallow pool of herbed oil and buttermilk. Thickly cut and lightly cured, the plump slices of fish balanced between the verdant fronds of dill, and the buttery eel brandade. The elements came together so harmoniously that I couldn’t believe my tastebuds; though light and fresh, it was an undeniable riot of flavours. 

Jerusalem Artichoke, Turnip, Chestnut, and Bread Sauce 

Nothing was going to top the cured kingfish, but I don’t think the Jerusalem Artichoke, Turnip, Chestnut, and Bread Sauce tried to. After the delicate yet complex flavours of the previous dish, it was good to have something so reassuring. Covered in the velvety bread sauce were chunks of crisp, sweet roasted Jerusalem artichoke. The aroma that wafted up from the soft grating of cheese was so tempting that I regretted immediately not paying the extra $25 to have some truffle on top of this dish.

Flounder, Smoked Mussels, Leek, and Brown Butter 

The Flounder, Smoked Mussels, Leek, and Brown Butter was another deceptively simple dish. The fillet of flounder was cooked to perfection, the skin brittle and crisp, the fish falling apart in silken, pearly flakes. Adding to the aroma was leek done two ways – in a buttery puree, and grilled over hot coals.  The single smoked mussel was a salty, briny spotlight amongst the sweet earthiness. 

Smoked and Cured Duck, Golden Raisin, Candy Striped Beets 

Forget turkey and cranberry sauce, the Smoked and Cured Duck, Golden Raisin, Candy Striped Beets is where it’s at. The duck, gently cooked, was allowed to remain fatty and plump, its flavour augmented with honeyed beetroot and golden currants. Sitting underneath was the most fabulous charred onions, adding an extra layer of smokiness to the duck. 

New Zealand Venison, Quince, Burnt Onion, and Morcilla 

New Zealand Venison, Quince, Burnt Onion, and Morcilla 

Our final savoury dish of New Zealand Venison, Quince, Burnt Onion, and Morcilla was a surprisingly substantial one. The stout chunks of venison were pink and juicy, rubbed with a mix of ground spices and pepper. And for that little extra bit of indulgence, a cube of rich, crumbly black pudding on the side. To balance out all that protein was the most exquisitely roasted pumpkin, and little dollops of quince jam served quaintly in onion petals. 

Coconut Sticky Rice with Ginger and Lime

Before our dessert proper, we were given a little jar of Coconut Sticky Rice with Ginger and Lime. For such a plain, and dare I say it, bland looking dessert, the amount of flavour it packed defied logic. The luscious coconut milk, the fiery crystallised ginger, the airy yet zesty lime cream – it collided in an explosion of flavours and textures, leaving my knees a little weak as I scraped the last vestiges of cream from the jar. 

Warm Pressed Apple, Bourbon, and Cream Cheese Pastry 

At long last, dessert. Taking a simpler approach, our dessert of Warm Pressed Apple, Bourbon, and Cream Cheese Pastry was a deconstructed apple pie for grown-ups. The brick of poached and pressed apple pulled apart into warm layers fragrant with cinnamon, to be eaten with the buttery layer of pastry underneath, and a scoop of heady bourbon ice cream. 

Turkish Delight

Our meal was wrapped up with little jewels of Turkish Delight. Instead of being overly sweetened and flavoured, these little sugar-dusted cubes were delicate and floral, and just a little bit sour. It melted in a way that brought to mind the Turkish delight from The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe. A perfect ending to a perfect meal.

Cutler and Co. has me smitten. Each dish was a work of art that had us appreciating it with every sense, and every part of our meal was dazzling in a simple, understated way. There isn’t much else to say other than ‘I love Cutler and Co.’ – it’s my new favourite restaurant for sure.

Rating: 19/20 – copping out on the 20/20 because what is perfection anyway?

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.