Sonido!

69 Gertrude St 

Fitzroy, VIC 3065
http://sonido.com.au/

I’m pretty keen on the Fitzroy area at the moment; as I work right near the Parliament end of the CBD, getting to the inner north suburbs is a breeze. And it’s just as well, because the whole Fitzroy area is bursting with new and exciting places to eat for all occasions. 

Sonido! is, as far as I’m aware, a place that has until only recently started opening for dinner. So despite being tempted with the promise of authentic South American arepas, it wasn’t until last week that I rode the tram up Gertrude Street to pay it a visit. 

Walking into Sonido! is like walking onto a film set. So draped and bedecked in trinkets that it resembled a gift-shop, it nevertheless had a homely feel to it, and certainly none of the cheap tackiness you’d usually find associated with indigenous souvenirs. It was rather quiet over dinner, as Sonido! seemed to be more of a daytime haunt, but it felt peaceful rather than forlorn. 

Morcilla Arepa ($12)

Though I’m not sure who was the first person that thought blood would make a fantastic addition to sausage, I do regret the relative obscurity of morcilla, aka black pudding in Melbourne, and tend to jump for it whenever I see it on a menu. Unfortunately, the Morcilla Arepa ($12) looked a little... unfortunate.

Morcilla Arepa ($12)

Still, I’m not going to begrudge the bounty before me simply for its appearance. Not nearly as earthy and rich as the Spanish variety I’ve had on several occasions as Movida, this lighter version of morcilla was coarse and moist, the mix of spices in the filling allowed to shine, reinforced by the crisp arepa – a thin flatbread made with corn – and the tangy-creamy duo of salsa and guacamole. 

Pollo Arepa ($12)

Pollo Arepa ($12)

Closer to home, and a little more photogenic, was the Pollo Arepa ($12) – a selection of marinated chicken thighs. Aside from being smoky and tender, the fillets were marinated in an exotic blend of cane sugar, lime juice, and hot paprika. It was a joyful combination of honeyed spice, the fatty, seared edges of the chicken bringing to mind the sizzling of meat on hot coals.  

We spent a happy hour at Sonido!, quietly enjoying each other’s company and the honest, homely food served on chipped crockery. The smell of spiced meats mingled with the crackling music issuing from a record player transported me far away, away from Melbourne and to sunny South America.

Rating: 13.5/20 – the shortest wine list on gertrude st (their claim, not mine).

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.