452 City Rd
South Melbourne, VIC 3205
When I travelled to Malaysia and
Singapore two summers back, I spent every available moment stuffing my face
with the delicacies on offer. Whilst it didn’t take too long for my stomach to
rebel against the never-ending litany of food, I had enough time to eat up all
of my favourites – Hainanese chicken rice, fried kweh teow, roti soaked in
curry sauce, steaming hot bowls of laksa. But what left me with the deepest
impression was a heavenly curry puff I had from a street side vender, the flaky
pastry stuffed full of spiced lamb chunks and fluffy potato. I’ve yet to find an equivalent in Melbourne,
but Mr Loys Puff seemed as
good of a place to start as any.
Freshly opened in South Melbourne,
this hole-in-the-wall restaurant is here to provide a taste of authentic
Singapore street food to the homesick and the hungry. The idea here is fast and
simple, the menu whittled down to a selection of classics, and two types of
curry puffs.
Traditional Curry Puff ($2ea) |
Black Pepper Chicken Puff ($2ea) |
We started off with one of each
type of curry puff – a Traditional
Curry Puff ($2ea), and a Black
Pepper Chicken Puff ($2ea) – and the nostalgic drink of chyrsanthemum
tea in a can. The pastry was crumbly and
buttery, hand-folded around a rich filling of curry chicken, egg, and potato.
The black pepper chicken puff had a similarly chunky and satisfying centre, but
the spiced curry sauce was swapped for mellow black pepper gravy.
Nasi Lemak ($8.5) |
I’ll be up front and say that I
normally don’t like Nasi Lemak
($8.5); I’ve always found the individual elements on the plate to be much too noncohesive, and I end up feeling like I’ve eaten less than the sum of all the
parts. So it was with delighted surprise that I found myself greatly enjoying
playing mix and match with crackling anchovies, roasted peanuts, and an
absurdly crunchy chicken cutlet dipped in scorching sambal. I daresay what held
it all together was the sweet fragrance of coconut in the rice, so often
disappointingly absent.
Hainanese Chicken Rice ($7.8, regular) |
Hainanese Chicken on Rice ($7.8, regular) on the other hand
is a stalwart favourite of mine. The dark mound of rice was flavoured
satisfyingly with a gingery chicken stock, served with tender poached chicken
and tangy chilli sauce. The chicken soup on the side was lovingly sweetened
with scallions and carrots, and I noticed a distinct absence of MSG. The dish
could’ve done with a more generous portion of chicken, as what we had was quite
skin-heavy, but it was also a fraction of the cost of what you would expect to
pay.
Banana and Chocolate Puff ($2ea) |
There’s no dessert on the menu as
of yet, but keep your eye out for the Banana
and Chocolate Puff ($2ea), a work in progress that we were lucky enough
to sample. The buttery pastry and fluffy chunks of banana were already
delicious as they were, but the best bit was when we hit upon a pocket of
molten chocolate. Chris and I both agreed with our host that, with just a
little (or a lot) more chocolate, this would be a devastating dessert.
Mr Loys Puff is unfortunately a bit
out of the way for me for a day to day visit, but the food reminded me a lot of
what I got to chow down on my holiday. But for those who work and live in the
area, Mr Loys Puff is a tasty and reliable option, good for a snack or a meal
any time of the day.
Rating: 13/20 – nostalgia puffs.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit
Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Mr Loys Puff
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