Mamak

366 Lonsdale St
Melbourne, VIC 3000 
mamak.com.au

Mamak has moved across the border. It was a natural step, really, given the success of its two sister stores in Sydney. After all, why should Melbourne miss out on all the fun? And aforementioned success is why no one was surprised to see the Malaysian restaurant fill up within the span of 10 minutes, once lunchtime hit.

Traditionally, mamak is a Malaysian term used to describe a small street-side food stall run by Tamil Muslims (says wiki). But these days they have evolved into more cafe-like establishments serving hawker-styled dishes. The menu isn’t big, specialising in roti and beverages, with a smattering of curries, satay, and whatnot. But who are we kidding, pass the roti please.

Milo Ais ($3.5)/Teh Halia ($3.5)

We started off with a couple of traditional drinks. Chris loved his cold glass of Milo Ais ($3.5), malty and chocolaty in the way mums everywhere forbade. But it didn’t hold a candle up to the warm complexity of the Teh Halia ($3.5), the traditional sweet and frothy ‘pulled’ milk tea made with condensed milk, enhanced with a satisfyingly spicy ginger powder (syrup? flavouring? essence? I’ve no idea).

Roti Canai ($5.5)

Roti Canai ($5.5)

The logical first step would be to try the Roti Canai ($5.5), a simple rosette of dough with a crispy exterior encasing pale, buttery ribbons. Torn into pieces and drenched in robust curry sauces, and maybe a daub of sambal, this was a shining ode to simplicity.

Chicken Murtabak ($11.5)

Chicken Murtabak ($11.5)

If you were after something a bit more substantial (though the roti canai is a lot more filling than it looks), the Chicken Murtabak ($11.5) is a good choice. It’s listed under the roti section but it’s really more of a sandwich-sized omelette, moist and fluffy with chicken, cabbage, and a pinch of curry powder, held in place by a sheet of gauze-thin roti. 

Roti Kaya ($7.5)

Roti Kaya ($7.5)

We were pretty much full but I couldn’t and wouldn’t leave without trying the Roti Kaya ($7.5). Talk about saving the best for last. The unassuming square of roti was just substantial enough to carry the thick, fragrant smear of kaya, a Malaysian coconut jam flavoured with pandan, yet still light enough for golden, crispy edges.

With a reputation preceding itself by 877.9km, it’s no wonder Mamak is, and will continue to do well. I personally wouldn’t cross the town to eat at Mamak, as the choices are a bit limited, but I would damn well hope that I’m nearby if a roti and teh halia craving hits.

Rating: 13.5/20 – satisfying the ro-teh craving.