Dinknesh (Lucy) Restaurant and Bar

227 Barkly St 

Footscray, VIC 3011
http://www.dinkneshlucyrestaurant.com.au/

I don’t give the Western suburbs enough credit. When I think west, I think Footscray. When I think Footscray, I think Vietnamese. And why on earth should I go out that far for Vietnamese when I’m a 20 minute straight-line drive from Springvale? What I’m always forgetting is that, aside from an abundance of Asian food, Footscray also specialises in a colourful cuisine rarely seen elsewhere in Melbourne (and definitely not in Springvale) – African cuisine.

Dinknesh (Lucy) Restaurant and Bar is a little bit away from the central hub of Footscray. It’s very bare bones, the space simply furnished and sparely decorated, though the air carries a strong smell of spices. We were the only customers on a dreary Monday evening.

Injera

All meals came with the African staple dish of Injera. Large as plates, even larger than platters, the rounds of fermented bread were rolled up like soft, warm towels, ready to soak up any sauce that comes its way. The intensity of the injera always surprises me. It carries a sharp, fermented tanginess that belies its mellow appearance. I find it too strong to eat on its own, but it’s absolutely perfect when dipped into rich sauces.

Lucy Meat Combination ($17)

We ordered the Lucy Meat Combination ($17), a platter of stewed meats and vegetables. We ate with our hands, revelling in the way the sauces soaked into the injera. The bozena shiro – chickpeas and beef stewed in clarified butter – was mild and aromatic, the addition of tomato and onion bringing to mind hearty Italian ragus. The ybeg wot (spicy beef stew) however was sharp and pungent with spices, a real contrast to the mild creaminess of the ybeg alicha (braised lamb).

Lucy Meat Combination ($17)

On the side were vegetable dishes; potatoes and carrots in turmeric, cooked cabbage, and – my favourite – potatoes sweetly braised in beetroot. 

Lucy Vegetable Combination ($15)

As opposed to trying to choose one other dish, we had the Lucy Vegetable Combination ($15). Instead of meats, this platter was a variety of richly spiced mashed pulses and grains, and a pinch of wilted silver beet. It is every bit as filling as its carnivorous counterpart and a joy to eat, bringing to mind an unfamiliar variation of pita and hommus.

I thought Dinknesh was enjoyable, but I thought it could’ve been a lot better given different circumstances. I imagine it would’ve been a better experience overall had we visited on a busier evening. Plus, then we may have gotten food that was freshly cooked, instead of re-heated in the microwave as so many other people complained of – the uneven heating of the different dishes were telltale. I like the spirit of Dinknesh, but I don’t know about coming out this far, especially not with Little Africa so much closer by.

Rating: 12/20 – if you’re in the area.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit. 

Little Africa

358 Victoria St 

North Melbourne, VIC 3051

http://www.littleafrica.com.au/

You’re in for a good time. There is no way a meal that starts with the waiter asking if we would like any cutlery could go wrong. And it’s even better when he carries over a plate big enough for me to sit on, covered with food. I admit that I don’t know much about African food, but after a co-worker brought in a traditional African meal that smelt hypnotic, I wanted to find out more. And whilst Footscray seems to be the place to go for African cuisine, there’s a location much closer to home – Little Africa, right by Queen Vic Markets.  

Stepping out of the weather with rain squelching in our shoes, Little Africa was a haven of dusky lights and the mellow aroma of spices, and I loved it on sight. The restaurant is tiny, hardly bigger than my living room, and it has the feel of an entirely family-run business; and probably is, as a matter of fact. 

Combination of the Day ($25pp)

Little Africa is a bit like Moroccan Soup Bar in that, despite having a full-sized menu, everyone inevitably gravitates to the banquet option. We chose the Combination of the Day ($25pp) in favour of the vegetarian alternative, and soon we were presented with a monstrous platter of chicken, fish, lamb, and an assortment of vegetables, lounging on a futon of steamed flatbread. 

Combination of the Day ($25pp)

This is the kind of food that begs for company and good conversation. The flavours on the plate ranged from the mellowed spices of the creamy lentils, to succulent chunks of chicken, braised in oil with chillies and herbs. Each dish packed so much flavour, yet was comforting in its own right, especially when scooped up with pieces of the sharp, yeasty bread, its sponginess perfect for soaking up thick sauces.  

Dining at Little Africa was a one-of-a-kind experience for me. It’s incredibly rare to come across a meal that tastes of long hours in the kitchen, made with the love of cooking for family. The food may have been delicious, but it’s the warmth and sincerity that will bring me back.

Rating: 14/20 – little africa, big heart.

This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.