377 Little Bourke St (Access through Racing
Club Lane)
Who even eats ice cream these days? With Melbourne becoming more
urbane by the day, Paddle Pops have long since been replaced with scoops of
sticky gelato in creative flavours. After all, what’s not to like about denser,
more concentrated ice cream with lower fat content?
With the advent of nitrogen gelato
however, frozen dessert enthusiasts have taken their love of gelato one step
further. The gelato mix is flash-frozen by liquid nitrogen for even smaller ice
crystals, resulting in an even smoother texture. And Dex2rose Nitrogen Gelato is the new kid on the block – just
look for the colourful chalk drawings on the pavement.
We went down the laneway to find a cafe
with smiling faces, freshly churning gelato, and – let’s be honest; this is
what everyone comes to see – dangerous-looking vats of liquid nitrogen. That
said though, it may be science, but it’s definitely not clinical. The whole
vibe is very Melbourne, and very laid back. Instead of the hit-and-run feel of
most gelaterias around town, Dex2rose is a little oasis, encouraging you to sit
down, pull out the paper, and take a breather from your day.
Cold Pressed Juice ($5.95) |
I try to never let salespeople
catch me in the street, because I am a sucker for coercion. Case in point:
despite planning to save room for the gelato, we were quickly persuaded into
trying their Cold Pressed Juice
($5.95), made in-house with seasonal fruits that change every couple of days.
On the day we visited, we were treated to a mixture of watermelon, Granny Smith
apples, and Royal Gala apples. Cold press may sound like a marketing gimmick
but I’m telling you, it is real. The
juice was astoundingly fresh and delicious, and tasted much cleaner and more
vibrant than juices made in a blender.
Cold Brew Coffee ($4.95) |
Next thing I know, I’ve been
sweet-talked into trying some Cold
Brew Coffee ($4.95), despite it being after 3pm. This is a great
alternative to sweating it out over a flat white on a hot day. Though I like it
best with a splash of milk and sugar syrup, it is just as easy to drink black,
the taste of it nutty and smooth with barely any acidity.
On a side note, how cool are those
bottles? Like every good cafe, Dex2rose is environmentally conscious, packaging
their beverages in reusable bottles. If you like them so much and want to take
one home, you can always pick them up for a couple dollars each.
Maybe it's Mapeline ($5.95, small) |
Sometimes a dish is so cleverly
named that you have to try it, and Maybe
it’s Mapeline ($5.95, small) is definitely one of them. The creamy
gelato, sweetened with grade A Canadian maple syrup, was chock-full of candied
walnuts and topped with whipped cream. The mixture of sticky gelato and crispy
nuts was downright addictive, and because it wasn’t overly saccharine, I could
eat scoop after scoop without it being cloying.
Salty Camel ($4.95, small) |
Salty Camel ($4.95, small) |
Most dessert places have something
salted caramel flavoured, and Dex2rose is no exception. However, in this case
it’s actually a Salty Camel
($4.95, small), and like its name, it’s just a little bit different. Whilst the
gelato itself is smooth and indulgent with salted caramel, it is churned
through with glossy shards of crunchy home-made toffee. The result is a
dentist’s nightmare that is full-on in both flavour and texture – just make
sure you brush your teeth afterwards!
Salty Camel ($4.95, small) |
The Salty Camel was also the
flavour that really showcased the gelato’s texture. Each spoonful pulled away in
sticky, stretchy strands, and was silken and rich on the tongue.
Fash Pash ($4.95, small) |
On the lighter end of the spectrum
was the Fash Pash ($4.95,
small) – an upside-down passionfruit cheesecake gelato with a very Aussie name.
This was an ideal summer treat, the gelato packed full of tangy, tropical
passionfruit flavour, topped with a biscuit crumb.
Strawberry on a Beach ($4.95, small) |
Making one last valiant effort, we
tried the Strawberry on a Beach
($4.95, small), which was once again, a traditional flavour with a bold twist. The
gelato itself was fruity and not overly sour, but the most striking feature is
the whipped cream, which was infused with a fragrant mixture of coconut and
floral rosewater. And this delicious little concoction is dairy free, gluten
free, and vegan, so all you poor souls with allergies, rejoice!
Though nitrogen gelato has been at
the forefront of the dessert scene ever since N2 Extreme Gelato showed
up in Melbourne, I feel that it’s stagnated somewhat as of late. The focus of
some stores (not N2 – N2 is fantastic) has been more on the theatrics rather
than flavour, and some of the ones I’ve tried tasted no different to fancy
toppings mixed into ice cream. Thus, Dex2rose comes as a breath of fresh,
innovative air, with Jesse at the back brewing up new concoctions to be
released every fortnight. There’s a super exciting flavour coming up on the
menu that I’m not allowed to give away but, it contains bacon, so keep your
eyes peeled!
Rating: 14.5/20 – rosy.
This rating reflects my personal experience at the time of visit.
Sweet and Sour Fork dined as a guest of Dex2rose Nitrogen Gelato.
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